Luckily in Medellin, there are many ways to get around. They all are easy to use and budget-friendly. You can choose to go by bus, tram, cable car, or train, depending on your location and destination.

Stop touring the city by taxi for fear of getting lost in public transport! Check out this guide to learn how to get around Medellin!

Paying for Public Transportation in Medellin

Depending on the duration of your trip in Medellin, you can get a Civica card or a temporary ticket.  Either of these options is perfect for those who will stay about 2 or 3 days in Medellin.

The best recommendation is to buy a Civica card if you’re staying in the city for at least a week or more. Go to one of these stations:

• Niquia Station
• San Antonio station
• Itagüi station

This procedure is free! Please only approach one of the booths and present a valid I.D, which can be your passport or Colombian I.D. 

A consultant will take your data. After a few minutes, you’ll have the card in your hands. Then you’ll have full access to four public transit carriers.

Already having the Civica card, you must recharge it in one of the 136 green refill machines strategically located in metro stations. 

Or you can look for one of the 1200 establishments of external recharge. These can be in small stores or supermarkets. Please ask if you can recharge your card there and then proceed to do so if allowed. 

There is also an app called Nequi to recharge it without leaving home if that is more convenient. 

Getting Around by Bus

For some tourists, Medellin’s bus system can be a bit confusing. However, there will always be apps like Google Maps or Moovit that can help you move around the city. There are three types of buses in Medellín:

• Private buses
• Intercity buses
• Integrated buses

Private Buses

Private buses are from private transport companies. They’re all different colors and sizes. To know the route it takes, just read the sign on the windshield, where you’ll also find the price list (This is similar to the integrated bus).

Keep in mind that there are no bus stops for this type of service, so you just have to wave your hand as if you were hailing a taxi.

When boarding the bus, you must pay the driver and bring a few coins or small bills for tipping. 

Intercity Buses

If you want to get away from Medellin for a few days or visit other parts of the country, you’ll have to take the intercity bus system in the North or South terminal. The terminal is dependent on your destination.

• The North terminal is at the Caribe Metro
• The South terminal is at the El Poblado Metro 

To come best prepared, buy your tickets from the terminal website a few days in advance or buy them at the terminal.

Integrated Buses

You can take the integrated buses at metro stations or bus stops. It’s simple to differentiate them from private buses, as they are green and have the word “Metro” on the windshield.

When boarding the bus, pay with a Civica card or cash. You can also buy the integrado ticket to move by bus or metro.

When you’re at your destination, just press the red button so the driver will know to drop you off at the nearest bus stop.

Getting Around by Tram

The tram was inaugurated in 2016 and is known as one of Medellin’s biggest pride in terms of innovation. Currently, only one tram takes you from San Antonio station to Oriente station.

The tram has nine stops. Three stops are for transferring to access the metro, metrocable, and bus. The transfer stations are:

• San Antonio Station
• San Jose Station
• Miraflores Station

Remember, passengers that use the tram must have a Civica card.

Getting Around by Metro and Cablecar

By far, using the metro or cablecar is the easiest and quickest way to get anywhere in the city. The Metro en Medellin app will help find all information regarding metro lines, costs, schedules, and temporary closures.

This app works similarly to Google Maps. By putting the point of origin and destination, the app will let you know where the nearest station is and how long your trip will take. 

The metro connects to the cablecar service and has six service lines. It crosses through the comunas 1 and 2, among other tourist destinations such as the Arvi Ecotourist Park. 

There is no extra charge for getting on the Cablecar as long as you stay at the metro station. If paying with the Civica Card, buy a single ride ticket (univiaje) or an Integrado ticket.

Some Tips to Keep In Mind

Whenever you’re going to use some means of public transport in Medellin, you must consider a couple of tips:

• On weekdays rush hours are very early in the morning (4 to 7 am) and anytime after 5 pm. Always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Be especially careful in rush hours. Although all means of transport are safe, it’s always good to be cautious with your items. 

Save Time Getting Around Medellin

Now that you know how to move to Medellin while saving money and enjoying the urban life, plan your weekend and visit the city! 

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A note on safety

El Centro’s infamous reputation stems from its high rates of crime and homelessness. While the district is safe to go to, it’s wise to be extra vigilant while there. Do not flash valuables (this includes jewelry), know where you’re going, and do not walk alone at night. For more tips about avoiding trouble, see our guide to safety in Medellín.

Join the free walking tour

For travelers looking to learn about Medellín’s past and culture, the free walking tour offers one of the most interesting insights into the city’s recent transformation. Taking groups through the busy streets of El Centro, the tour provides detailed explanations about the significance of certain points, as well as the Paisa lifestyle. If you’re eager to experience real Colombia, this is an absolute must. The tours take place daily but attendees need to book in advance on the website.

While the tour is technically free, it works on a tip-basis, whereby you pay your guide what you think they’re due at the end.

Snap a photo at Plaza Botero

Avenida Carabobo

A major landmark in the city, Plaza Botero is a square outside of Museo de Antioquia, filled with sculptures made by Medellín-born artist Fernando Botero. The sculptures’ distorted proportions and amusing positions make for a great photo opportunity – especially with Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe in the background. The striking black and white chequered building is on the best pieces of architecture in Medellín. To really enjoy Plaza Botero, we recommend sitting with a tinto and watching the world go by for a few hours.

Reflect on Medellín’s past at Los Pájaros de Paz

Calle 44 #50 

Another Botero activity (he was born in Prado and has an especially large presence in El Centro), Los Pájaros de Paz are two large, bronze sculptures of birds in San Antonio Plaza. The difference between these figures and the ones in Plaza Botero is that one of the birds has a hole spilling shrapnel from its stomach. In 1995, a terrorist bombing in the square killed 30 people, injured hundreds more, and destroyed the first bird. In response, Botero donated a new, identical, undamaged bird to stand next to the original. Today, the birds are a tribute to the victims and a stark reminder of Medellín’s dark past.

Stroll through Parque de las Luces

A short walk from Plaza Botero, Parque de las Luces is the area in front of the public library filled with maze-like rows of tall light beacons. The space was renovated in 2005 in an attempt to make it more attractive and safer for tourists. Previously, Parque de las Luces had serious problems with drugs and crime at night, so architect Juan Manuel Peláez designed the installation to literally shine a light on the issue and make a change.

The 300 lights are most spectacular around dusk when they are illuminated in different colors and look particularly majestic. However, it’s best not to check out Parque de las Luces too late, as there are still troubles in the area.

Eat at Restaurante Vegetariano Govindas

Carrera 52 #51-14

El Centro is bustling with a variety of typical Colombian cuisine but if you’re vegetarian, it can be difficult to find somewhere to accommodate. Luckily, Govindas is a delicious veggie option with a fantastic view. The restaurant has recently moved locations and now looks out over the church and hectic streets of El Centro. If the heat or hordes of people get too much, we suggest coming here for a little peace and quiet and refueling. Govindas also sometimes host yoga, meditation, and sustainability workshops, so be sure to check their agenda.

Get your culture fix at Museo de Antioquia

Calle 52 #43

A must-do on the traveler trail, Museo de Antioquia is home to a huge selection of art that tells the story of Antioquia. The grand building boasts galleries featuring Botero’s artwork, a library, interactive exhibitions, and a picturesque central fountain feature. Entrance is $18,000 COP for non-Colombians and there’s a restaurant and gift shop on-site.

If you’re visiting during the rainy season, Museo de Antioquia is a top pick to escape the rain and still soak up a little culture.

Taste Paisa food at Hacienda

Carrera 49 Junín #52-98 

Looking for comida típica? Look no further than Hacienda – the spot to chow down on the heartiest of Colombian’s dishes. Although the chain now has multiple locations around Medellín, the original – where housewives created the recipes year ago – is in El Centro. Nestled on the second floor with a balcony overlooking the street below, Hacienda is ideal to sample Antioqueña culture. The best items include Bandeja Paisa – a platter of meat, beans, rice, platano, arepa, and avocado; Mondongo – soup with pork, beef, chorizo, and vegetables; and Sancocho – a stew with meat, potatoes, yuca, plantains, and vegetables.

Prices are a little higher than other restaurants in El Centro but the experience and flavors are well worth it.

Watch live music at El Acontista

Calle 53 #43-81

If you want to sip a cocktail while listening to live music, El Acontista is a hidden gem in El Centro. The bar hosts different musicians throughout the week, with genres ranging from jazz to blues, acoustic and country. The ambiance is cozy, the service friendly, and the prices cheap – what more could you want? Oh, and El Acontista also doubles as a book store, the kind where the walls are filled from ceiling to floor with books. Visit during the day for some Colombian literature or at night for suave performances.  

Get artsy at La Pascasia

Carrera 42 #46-46

Found in the cultural heritage region of El Centro, La Pascasia is a collective that gives local artists a platform to be heard or seen. Poetry readings, film showings, live music, dancing, and art viewings all take place here in a space that has a strong sense of community. If you want to see El Centro beyond the standard sights, La Pascasia is a no-frills presentation of Medellín’s undiscovered talent. The venue is open every night from Wednesday through to Saturday.

Go flower shopping at Placita de Flórez

Calle 50 #39

Medellín is famous for the yearly Feria de las Flores, and so naturally, there are several spots around the city to buy colorful arrays of flowers. Placita de Flórez is a huge, bright yellow market with the biggest supply of plants in the city. Visitors can wander through stalls selling all types of flowers for impressively low prices. There’s also fresh fruit and vegetables, hand-woven baskets, clothes, sweet treats, and other trinkets on offer. This is as Colombian an outing as they come; just be prepared with cash (nowhere will accept card) and for the market to be packed on weekends.

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San Javier is a residential area, occupying a hilly sprawl at the western edge of Medellín. It is one of the most densely populated parts of the city and stretches over 74.2 km2. Whether you’re planning a trip to Comuna 13 or simply want to know more about safety across Medellín, here’s everything you need to know about San Javier.

Safety

At one time, Comuna 13 was the most dangerous district in Medellín, plagued by violence at the hands of guerrillas, paramilitary groups, drug cartels, and local gangs. These days, the Comuna is safer and tours regularly run here; however, it is important to note that the area still faces issues with crime and gang violence.

During the day, if you choose to explore with a group and follow basic common-sense rules to stay out of trouble, you’ll be fine. In the evening, foreigners are best to avoid San Javier, unless especially familiar with Medellín and confident speaking Spanish. We also recommend checking the news or asking around before visiting – sometimes there are periods of high violence and people are advised not to go.

Demographics

San Javier is compiled of 16 barrios (neighborhoods). They are:

El Pesebre
Blanquizal
Santa Rosa de Lima
Los Alcázares
Metropolitano
La Pradera
Juan XXIII
Antonio Nariño
San Javier no. 1
San Javier no. 2
Veinte de Julio
El Salado
Nuevos Conquistadores
Las Independencias
El Corazón
Belencito
Betania
La Divisa
Eduardo Santos
El Socorro

The most populated barrios are Juan XXIII La Quiebra, followed by La Independencia, and El Salado.

According to 2019 statistics, Comuna 13 is home to a little over 140,243 people, 63.94 percent of whom are 39 years of age or younger. Meanwhile, a 2018 government census suggests there are now 139,716 people living in San Javier. 67,139 of those are men, while 72,577 are women. The majority of residents are aged between 25-29, making up 8.53 percent of the population. The smallest age range represented is 80+, which makes up 1.56 percent of the population.

In addition to having a younger population, Comuna 13 is also predominantly in the lower strata tier. The strata system is a socio-economic scale used throughout Colombia: 1 is the lowest, while 6 is the highest.

Comuna 13 is roughly divided as follows:

35.7 percent of households in Strata 1
27.7 percent in Strata 2
30.9 percent in Strata 3
5.7 percent in Strata 4

San Javier’s history

In the last 20 years, Comuna 13 has been an epicenter of violence and struggle for criminal control within the Medellín valley. As a result, residents of all ages have been caught in the crossfire, and forcibly displaced from their homes.

San Javier has long been an area of strategic importance to guerrilla and paramilitary groups, as well as gangs looking to control the San Juan Highway leading west out of the city (and north to the Caribbean coast). By controlling the highway, criminals can control the illegal goods flowing in and out of Medellín, and much of Colombia.

On October 16, 2002, the Colombian military launched the controversial Operation Orion to remove left-wing rebels from the area. The result was more than 300 forced disappearances – a tragedy that remains painfully fresh in San Javier today. And while the operation did remove the left-wing rebels, their presence was almost immediately replaced by a paramilitary group lead by “Don Berna,” an heir of Pablo Escobar.

In 2010, more than 10 percent of the city’s 2,019 homicides occurred in San Javier. On September 21^st, 2010, Juanes, a Grammy-winning singer and Medellín native, organized a free concert to promote peace in Comuna 13. He was joined by J Balvin, Jowell & Randy, and other artists.

The ongoing violence also led local hip hop artists speaking out, with tragic consequences.

By trying to save their communities with their words, music, and art, hip hop artists drew the wrath of the gangs, with 10 hip hop artists being murdered since 2009. Dozens more were forced to flee their homes.

More recently, the western periphery of Medellín, including San Javier has been infiltrated by local crime syndicate La Oficina and paramilitary group AGC. Because of the Comuna’s turbulent past, when gangs have been removed, a power vacuum is formed that causes fighting between other gangs to take control. From January 1st, 2018 up until June 30th, 38 people were killed in San Javier. Almost all of the victims were shot, and 26 of the murders were deemed to be related to organized criminal groups.

With that said, it’s crucial to consider these statistics in context. San Javier undoubtedly has its problems but it is El Centro that has the highest homicide rate in Medellín. El Centro also has the highest number of robberies, followed by El Poblado and Laureles-Estadio.

It would seem then that San Javier is in a state of transition, whereby it wants to move away from its violent past – and has the backing of the government – but cannot shake the deep grip of criminals in the area. Nonetheless, that hasn’t stopped flocks of tourists heading to Comuna 13 on a daily basis to witness communities in the barrio promote change.

Escalator (Escaleras electricas)

The metrocable and the esclators are the main points of interest in San Javier. Both were established to improve residents’ access to the city, and have contributed to the Medellín’s international acclaim for urban renewal.

In 2011, a series of six covered escalators rising 400 meters up the very steep barrio were constructed in Comuna 13. The escalators are great fun to ride and soak up the vibrant life around, plus have had a huge impact on the people living nearby who experienced improved social mobility.

The escalators can be accessed via a short bus or taxi ride from the San Javier metro station, and are free to visit. Most people spend a few hours in the space around the escalators, which is now filled with local artwork, music, food, and dancing. As the area has become a tourist attraction, we encourage visitors to be extra diligent about where their money goes – aim to pay for things that directly support the community.

Street art

The area and walls around the escalators are decorated with long stretches of colorful graffiti. This artwork has become a huge draw for extranjeros – who come to learn what the paintings represent and to snap a photo with the vibrant backdrops. The majority of the art is done by locals residents and artists, who use animations and pictures to tell a story about their neighborhood. This soon became a tradition in the comuna – using art to reinvent the streets and encourage people from other parts of the city to visit.

There are a number of tours (in English and Spanish) that offer in-depth descriptions of the graffiti, as well as the difficult history San Javier has had to overcome. We recommend signing up for a tour given by members of the community to ensure the money supports local causes.

Metrocable in San Javier 

Having opened in 2008, the San Javier metrocable (Linea J) runs to and from La Aurora – a barrio particularly high up in the hills. There isn’t a whole lot for tourists to do in La Aurora (the neighborhood is primarily residential and not deemed safe for extranjeros), however, the journey itself is spectacular. Soaring over the maze-like rooftops, the river, and even up and over the valley, this metrocable gives one of the most striking views of Medellín. The cost is integrated with the metro system for a flat price of $2,550 COP.  

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Its name honors ex-President Carlos Eugenio Restrepo (1910-1914) buried in Cementerio de San Pedro.

The neighborhood is middle to upper class, located close to Calle 50 (Colombia) and Carrera 65, both high traffic roads with plenty of businesses.

What makes it so special, though, is its proximity to the National University in Medellín, the public library (Biblioteca Publica Piloto) and Universidad de Antioquia’s Arts Faculty, all of which attract students.

Over the past thirty years, Carlos E. Restrepo, better known as “Carlos E.” has developed a strip of cafés and restaurants, while keeping the traditional tiendas in between.

It’s hard to categorize the restaurants and stores you can find in Carlos E. I could go through the oldest and the newest, the best, the worst, the ones I haven’t tried…and so on.

However, I decided to do this in a semi-organized way: what these places offer.

Cafes

• Kaldi Kaffe – Known for their baked goods. No Wi-Fi.
• ExLibris – Good coffee, known for their desserts, also a bookstore with lots of knickknacks for sale.
• Cafe La Piloto – Situated adjacent the Public Library, it has literary afternoons, movie nights and other events.

Artsy Restaurants

Most of these places have art on the wall already, Kaldi has paintings of birds, Verde Albahaca has a mural on the wall, but a few of these restaurants pride themselves on being alternative, artsy places.

They all serve a daily lunch menu that goes for about 8,000 pesos ($3).

• Ciudad Cafe – After 17 years running, this place got a rep for being a good music spot; they have live music on Thursdays, and Mondays and Tuesdays there are film discussions.
• El Aula – The newest addition of Carlos E., El Aula is a classroom-inspired restaurant with a Mediterranean-inspired menu.
• La Comedia – The oldest of the Carlos E. scene, La Comedia has been around for almost 30 years and offers a variety of food.

Fast Food

• Frutti Jhon – Hot dogs, pizza, burgers, the whole nine yards. I haven’t tried it, but there are always people there.

Pizza

• La Tiendecita – Because of the variety of pizzas offered in Carlos E., I have yet to try their menu, but the decor on the inside is artsy and attractive.
• Verde Albahaca – This is a place with a large music-inspired mural made by a Universidad de Antioquia student.
• Bigotes – This pizza has quite the reputation; the German owner makes his ham and bacon, so these pizzas are amazing. Arrive early, though, if you’re hungry. The line after 7 p.m. can postpone the satisfaction of your pizza craving.

Shoes

The only one of its kind, the shoe store in Carlos E. has bounced from being an independent design store to its current form as a shoe shop.

Events

Carlos E. Restrepo is such a weekend hot-spot that you will always see students sitting on the pavement selling sandwiches, having a beer, enjoying their night because there are no open benches left.

However, they also have events that pump up the visits, like Dias del Libro, during which, for a weekend, the place is full of book sale stands, food, drinks, and ambiance- even outdoor concerts!

All of these places and elements make Carlos E. an inexpensive and enjoyable outing any day of the week. Though it is one of the city’s smallest and lesser-known hangout spots, once you visit you’re sure to return.

Have you visited Carlos E. Restrepo and any of its cafés or restaurants? Let us know in the comments below.

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Glancing at the map, you see a hillside section of the city, a comuna that most foreigners do not know.

Why would they? Most foreigners are in Poblado, while others have found comfort in Laureles or one of the other up-and-coming areas of Medellín. Villa Hermosa, or Comuna 8, also used to have a bad reputation, some of it deservedly so but most of it a simple case of selection bias.

That’s fine. Climbing the hills to Comuna 8, east of El Centro, was a great experience for me.

I found Villa Hermosa to be a very mellow place, something like a suburb yet part of the city, a place you can live in peace, away from the crowds and traffic and nightlife in so many other parts of Medellín, if that’s what you want.

History

Settlement in this area started in the 1940s, mainly as a place for farming and also in close proximity to downtown Medellín. One of the city jails was also part of the district.

Today there are almost 136,000 residents in the 18 neighborhoods here, according to the city’s redevelopment plan, most of them working class families. About 69 percent of the people are ages 15 to 64.

Just over 94 percent of the comuna falls into the estratos 1 and 2 categories, with estrato 6 being the wealthiest.

No sections of the district are considered estrato 5 or 6, but I did see some nice houses there, and like much of Medellín, found comfort in the trees lining the many of the streets.

I also saw a new gym that opened recently, and I thought the sculpture of a huge frog at one of the street corners was amusing.

Better known landmarks are a beautiful park and modern library.

Places of Interest

That library, Biblioteca León de Greiff, used to be the site of the jail. It’s now a partially open-air facility with several sections, the main ones for books and an auditorium for movies and other presentations.

Next door is La Ladera, a park similar to the unidad deportivas, or sporting complexes, in other parts of the city, only on a smaller scale. There are football courts, pavilions for eating and relaxing, even a nice pool for the hotter days.

It’s also worth noting that one of the main roads from Medellín to Santa Elena passes through Villa Hermosa as it winds its way back and forth up the mountainside. Those prone to motion sickness may want to take Las Palmas highway instead.

Food

Like many of the non-foreigner-populated districts, the food here is mainly targeted to locals, meaning lots of comida típica.

Because my roommate’s girlfriend Yesenia lives in the area and was nice enough to show me around, I was lucky to get a homemade lunch of chorizo, fried banana, beans and rice, and fresh fruit juice too.

With a handful of small supermarkets and tiendas, residents can easily find their favorite ingredients to prepare a meal at home.

Nightlife

The biggest attraction might be Parque de Villa Hermosa, a small plaza next to the primary church in the comuna, something each district has.

On weekends, Yesenia said, the park fills with people looking to socialize.

Around the park, there are small bars and tiendas where people can have a few drinks as well.

Shopping Malls

There are none here. The closest one is probably Camino Real en El Centro, where you can take the red bus that says Villa Hermosa to get back and forth between the comuna and downtown.

Safety

Statistics gathered by Colombia Reports show that the homicide rate in Villa Hermosa is a hair higher than the city average, or about 43 per 100,000 people, compared to 42 per 100,000 citywide. In 2012, the rate in Villa Hermosa was about twice as high.

And if you go back to the early 2000s, the turf wars were bad enough that the neighborhood of La Sierra, at the easternmost fringe of the comuna and city, was the subject of a documentary by the same name.

But like most parts of the city, there is motive for these crimes, and provocation is easily avoided by using common sense.

Cost of Living

The lack of foreign interest and investment helps keep costs down here, so you should be able to find a comfortable, unfurnished two-bedroom place for 400,000 pesos a month (about $210).

There are modern medical clinics, restaurants that deliver and small grocery stores, providing convenience to comuna residents. But I didn’t see a lot of new development here, which means you can expect prices to remain affordable for the foreseeable future.

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The first mention of Manrique that I ever heard was about how dangerous it is. I suppose it can be.

But there are some interesting things about Comuna 3 as well, things people might want to see such as a tango museum, a big recreational park, and a nightlife area that will allow you to get to know the locals.

History

Other than a smattering of neighborhoods here and there — places like Manrique Central and Campo Valdes — the comuna did not officially begin to form until 1940.

Each decade brought more growth, like other parts of Medellín, and the 1980s and ‘90s brought the sadness and violence that became the reputation of this once-dangerous city.

Manrique’s location in the northeast sector of the city no doubt lent itself to a longer recovery. During the dark days, people were moving south, not north, to flee the fleeting life expectancy around El Centro.

But there is a plan in place to help this sector of the city, like so many others.

A government master plan shows that today Manrique is home to just over 157,000 people, half of which are ages 15 to 44, while another quarter of the population is part of the 45-to-64 age group. In other words, a lot of families live here.

There are 15 barrios, or neighborhoods, almost 60 percent of them falling into the Estrato 2 category on a scale of 1 to 6, with 6 the wealthiest. Another 26 percent are in Estrato 1 locales, the rest in Estrato 3.

There are no areas Estrato 4 and up.

You can argue that there is a correlation with the level of education here: 95 percent of the people have not studied past high school, and even then only 9 percent of the residents have even studied at that level.

That could change as the city continues to invest in redevelopment and promotion of higher education, especially with the University of Antioquia, one of the best in the country, in the neighboring Aranjuez district.

I am hopeful it will happen, however slowly it occurs.

Places of Interest

While redevelopment occurs, you can still enjoy a couple of attractions.

The most famous is Museo Casa Gardeliana, named after Carlos Gardel, the famous French-Argentine singer, songwriter, composer and actor. He died in a plane crash in Medellín in 1935.

His spirit lives on in this museum, and even in the streets every now and then, as you can see in the video above, something similar to what I saw in the San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires a few years back.

Gardel loved Medellín and made frequent trips here. The museum tells his story and the history of tango in the city, something slowly gaining a cult following here for people who want an alternative to salsa and reggaeton music.

You could spend a half day here, and the other half at Unidad Deportiva San Blas.

Here residents can enjoy basketball, softball, taekwondo, tennis and, of course, soccer.

Food

I won’t waste your time here. If you are in the mood for Colombian food, you’re set. If you’re not, tough luck.

Nightlife

Most of noctura is concentrated in two areas, Calle Barranquilla, near the Universidad de Antioquia, and the corner of Carrera 45 and Calle 71.

The people at the bars and clubs here will take great interest in any foreigners they meet because this district is far from the comforts of Poblado or Laureles.

The music typically is salsa or reggaeton. If there is a tango club, I do not know about it.

It’s generally safe now, but just watching your wallet and surroundings like anywhere else outside the primary touristy areas is advised, and take a taxi.

Shopping Malls

Like its neighbor Aranjuez, there are no big malls here. Maybe someday, but probably not anytime soon.

Safety

I was in Carmen del Viboral a couple of years ago, talking with a couple of paisas as we drank a couple of beers.

One of them told me Manrique is really dangerous.

The latest statistics show there were 21 homicides per 100,000 people in Manrique last year, about half the rate of the city average.

I ended up dating a girl from the comuna and found out that it depends what part of the district you’re in. The farther east and up the hill you are, the more dangerous it is.

Cost of Living

You can find a comfortable, unfurnished, two-bedroom place for about 400,000 pesos a month (about $210).

This probably will not change anytime soon. As I told you earlier, redevelopment is occurring, but slowly.

The important thing, though, is the comuna is improving and we will be watching its progress.

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The following is a guest post by Shane Talmage.

Santa Cruz (Comuna 2) is at the northwestern edge of Medellín and is bordered by Bello to the North, Popular to the East, Río Medellín/Castilla to the West, and Aranjuez to the South.

It is a residential area consisting of many small barrios but is commonly referred to as Acevedo. This area also encompasses the area between estacion Acevedo and Estacion Andalucia for the Santo Domingo metrocable line.

Santa Cruz consists mostly of houses, schools, sports courts and churches. There are small shops and bars that line the main streets, but nothing of special note for foreigners or outsiders to visit.

The population is a little over 100,000 and the majority of residents fall within Estrata 2 (meaning it is one of the poorer parts of the city).

In my opinion, and that of many others who live in the area, there is not too much to say about it.

Streets

Only the principal street at the bottom near the river is truly flat. Many of the streets going North to South are relatively flat as well, but not completely and do not provide good consistent sidewalks for pedestrians.

Everything going West to East being basically just one big tough hill.

Safety

The biggest fear I have is getting hit by a moto or taxi. There are few sidewalks for pedestrians and it’s the typical Medellín driving style, with little respect for those walking or on bikes.

The main street below the metrocable is one direction going up only, but the motorcycles will go down as well, so be cautious if you are crossing the street.

The motos also go on the wide pedestrian sidewalk when there is congestion or they are lazy.

My students and friends tell me to be more careful the more south you go in the community and the higher up in the barrio you go.

In the parts of Santa Cruz I have visited, I always felt safe in the daytime hours and I have walked around a lot. Many people are friendly and are more surprised to see a tall white foreigner than anything, and if given the opportunity will try to engage you in conversation.

If you mind your business and act smart, you should be ok.

The main street under the metrocable is always full of people during the day and most of the night and the principal road near the river is the same in the daytime hours, so few issues with safety in those areas, during those hours.

Nightlife and Restaurants

This is not a tourist area or a place outsiders typically visit. Most of the shops for clothing and food are small and for the neighborhood residents. You can find inexpensive bread, empanadas, fruits, etc.

It is nice buying bananas for 100 pesos (5 cents) and empanadas in one place for 200 pesos (10 cents).

Near the North bridge for Estacion Acevedo you can find many small shops and a nice inexpensive ice cream place on the east side of the road, across from the big fruit stand and kitty corner to a school.

As you climb the hill under the metrocable other small shops can be found, but mostly just small stores providing the locals what they need. There are no Exitos nearby, so everything is found in the small shops, otherwise you have to make a trip to Centro.

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About the Author: Shane Talmage has gotten to know Santa Cruz through his volunteer work there.

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Robledo is a comuna not well-known by name by many foreigners but if you happen to have been to Cerro El Volador, the large hill/natural park located north of Laureles/Estadio, you’ve been there.

Other than Cerro El Volador and several universities plus Medellín’s newest mall, Robledo is primarily a residential area. My Colombian girlfriend happens to be from Robledo so I have been there several times.

Where is Robledo?

Robledo is both a comuna (district) and a barrio (neighborhood) and is designated as Comuna 7 in Medellín. Robledo consists of 21 barrios and three other areas: campuses of University of Antioquia and National University plus the Eco-park Cerro El Volador.

The comuna is located in the northwestern part of Medellín. It is bordered on the north by Doce de Octubre and on the east by Castilla and the Medellín River. To the south, Robledo is bordered by San Javier, La América and Laureles/Estadio.

The closest metro stations to Robledo are University and Caribe, located along the Medellín River close to the eastern border of the comuna.

Many early colonies in Medellín were established in this area near Cerro El Volador. Until 1938, Robledo was a village of Medellín populated by craftsmen with the surrounding areas being rural and occupied by farms of wealthy families in the city.

Robledo currently is predominately a residential area. The comuna also has more universities than any other comuna in Medellín.

Universities in Robledo include: Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana (School of Health Scienes along with the Universidad Bolivariana Clinic), the Robledo campus of University of Antioquia, a campus of Bogotá-based Universidad Santo Tomás and the School of Mines of The National University of Colombia.

One of the best hospitals in Medellin, Hospital Pablo Tobón Uribe, which we recently reviewed, is also located in Robledo.

Robledo’s Demographics

According to 2013 government statistics, the comuna is home to a bit over 167,000 people, which makes it the third largest comuna in Medellín population-wise after Belén and Doce de Octobre. In Robledo, 46 percent of the residents have ages of 15 to 44.

About 79 percent of the housing in Robledo falls into either estrato 2 or 3 neighborhoods (on a scale of 1 to 6) with an average estrato of 2.4. The following compares the average estrato of Robledo to some nearby comunas as well as El Poblado:

• Doce de Octubre – 2.1
• Robledo – 2.4
• Aranjuez – 2.4
• Castilla – 2.9
• La Candelaria (El Centro) – 3.6
• Laureles-Estadio – 4.6
• El Poblado – 5.6

About 11 percent of Robledo is classified as Estrato 1 – the poorest neighborhoods. About 10 percent of the area in Robledo is designated as Estrato 4 or 5 neighborhoods, which are more the types of neighborhoods in Medellín where foreigners are more likely to live.

Points of Interest

The Metropolitan Region Natural Park Cerro El Volador located in Robledo is the largest natural park in Medellin, sized at 262 acres.

The large hill/park is located in an area that was once sacred ground for Indians who originally inhabited the Aburrá Valley. Cerro El Volador was designated as a natural Colombian heritage site in 1992.

The park has a small museum that exhibits historical evidence of the past indigenous people. A guided tour is available that takes you on a historical Indian trail.

Activities in the park include hiking, biking, jogging, bird watching and kite flying. There are a few places to buy food, snacks and drinks in the park. The park is a popular location for family picnics – many take their dogs along.

Cerro El Volador rises to an elevation of 269 feet and provides excellent views of the city and is one of the least known attractions in Medellín. It’s a good place to jog while enjoying the views, read a book or have a picnic and get away from it all.

Shopping Malls

Robledo is home to Florida Parque, the newest Western-style shopping mall in Medellín, which we recently reviewed here.

The mall opened in May 2013 and it was built due to the area being underserved without a shopping mall with a population of about 700,000 in barrios nearby.

Before Florida Parque was built, residents in the area had to travel to shop in Bello or El Centro or in malls further away.

Food

After a walk around Cerro Volador and spending time shopping at Florida Parque, you may be hungry. If the food court at Florida Parque doesn’t enthrall you, there is a very good restaurant option nearby.

I asked my girlfriend to take me to the best restaurant she knew of in Robledo and she brought me to El llanerito located at Calle 73 # 72A-47 Internal 101. This very popular restaurant has a cowboy theme and specializes in slow cooked meats.

Here’s a video showing how they cook the meat at El llanerito:

The cost was inexpensive at 23,000 pesos ($12) for the two of us for a three-meat platter with pork, ribs and veal, as well as yuca and potatoes plus drinks.

I especially liked the pork and ribs with barbecue sauce and recommend the restaurant.

Nightlife

So you’ve been to the largest park in Medellin, you have gone shopping at Medellin’s newest mall and you have eaten. Now you are ready for rumba but unfortunately Robledo is not really known for its nightlife.

When I asked my girlfriend about discos in Robledo she gave me a blank stare and said that she normally has gone to other areas such as La 70 or Las Palmas when she has gone to discos with her girlfriends.

But my girlfriend called some of her girlfriends and one of them recommended the Rinconcito disco in Robledo located a few blocks from the El llanerito restaurant.

We went one night to Rinconcito, which is located at Carrera 69 # 73-15, and it reminded me of the discos found on La 70. Along Carrera 69 there is a string of other bars plus a casino nearby to entertain you.

Cost of Living

It can be economical to live in Robledo, which is much less expensive than El Poblado, plus you are unlikely to encounter many gringos in Robledo.

Since the area has Estrato 1-5 neighborhoods there is a wide range of apartment rental pricing available in Robledo.

For example, you could find a two-bedroom unfurnished apartment in a high-rise or a three-bedroom apartment in a low-rise building for about 400,000 to 550,000 pesos ($214 to $293) per month in an Estrato 3 neighborhood.

My girlfriend’s aunt and uncle live in a three-bedroom apartment in a low-rise building in an Estrato 3 neighborhood in Robledo and they pay only 400,000 pesos ($214) per month for an unfurnished apartment they furnished.

In an Estrato 5 neighborhood in Robledo, a two-bedroom unfurnished apartment in a high-rise would rent for about 750,000 to 850,000 pesos ($401 to $455) per month.

Safety

Robledo’s homicide rate has been trending a bit higher than the city average in four out of the past six years. In 2013, Robledo had 77 homicides. But in the first three months of 2014, the number of homicides dropped to 16 from 23 in the same period in 2013.

Besides the new mall in Robledo, Cerro El Volador and the universities, I wouldn’t recommend that foreigners go wandering around some of the neighborhoods in Robledo without a Colombian friend or two to accompany them.

Most foreigners experience in Robledo would likely be limited to Cerro El Volador as Robledo is mainly a residential area.

Visitors to Robledo should exercise caution – I have heard that robberies sometimes even happen at Cerro El Volador so stick to the main paths with other people around. Police regularly patrol the area but it’s a big park.

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Comuna Castilla is not well-known by name, but if you’ve ever been to the Terminal del Norte (Northern Bus Terminal) to grab a bus to Guatape, Bogotá or the Caribbean coast, you’ve been there.

In an effort to continuing getting to know the city via its individual comunas, I recruited one of my oldest Colombian friends, Henry, who lives in Castilla to show me around.

He suggested we go out on a Saturday night, as the nightlife is a highlight of Castilla.

He invited one of his friends, and I invited two of mine, but before I share what we found, let’s take a quick look at the comuna’s demographics, geography and history.

Demographics

According to 2013 government statistics, Comuna 5 is home to a little over 147,000 people, 45 percent of whom are ages 15 to 44.

The majority of residents fall into strata 3 (on a scale of 1 to 6), making it mostly middle class, with the remainder falling into lower strata.

Castilla is mostly residential, running along the western side of the Medellín River with Bello to the north, Comuna 12 de Octubre to the west (this is a no-go area), and Comuna Robledo to the southwest.

Three metro stations can be found along its border with the river, including Caribe (which provides direct access to Terminal del Norte), Tricentenario, and Acevedo (transfer point for the metrocable to Santo Domingo).

Recent History

Development in Castilla began without a plan. In the 1950’s, slaughterhouses and factories began to be established in the Castilla and Caribe neighborhoods.

In 1957 and 1958, this construction, along with the northern highway and Plaza de Ferias began to attract more residents.

In the 1960’s, additional projects including industrial plants, Hospital La María y la Carretera al Volador (today Carrera 65) contributed further to the increasing population.

Today, Castilla’s location ensures it continues to play an important role in terms of transportation in and out of the Medellín valley for both tourism and commercial purposes.

Points of Interest

From a tourism perspective, there’s not much to see in Castilla itself, but it’s an important transit point like Guayabal.

Terminal del Norte (Northern Bus Terminal)

Accessible via a pedestrian bridge from the Caribe metro stop, the Terminal del Norte serves routes to the northern and easter parts of Colombia, including the Caribbean coastal cities of Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Marta, as well as cities like Bogotá, and pueblos in northern and eastern Antioquia, like Guatape.

If you want to go paragliding, you’ll go here to catch a bus toward San Felix.

Juanes Parque de la Paz (Juanes Peace Park)

Thanks, in part, to the support of Grammy-winning Colombian singer Juanes (through his Fundación Mi Sangre), the city developed a large swath of land near the Tricentenario metro station to be used for recreational purposes.

Opened in 2007, the park includes 4,000 square meters of green space, including 800 trees, sidewalks for walking and cycling, jogging trails, an outdoor theater, and computers.

Nightlife

Returning to our big Saturday night out in Castilla, we met up at Iglesia San Judas at Carrera 68 and Calle 98. From there, we walked down Carrera 68, which turns into the comuna’s Zona Rosa, or main nightlife district.

It was still early, a little past 8 p.m., so we were there as the community transitioned from day to evening activities. Shops and small grocery stores were closing, and bars were starting to open up.

Vendors were setting up their stalls for a street market, a regular occurrence the third Saturday of every month. There was even a small stage with a red curtain, waiting for a marionette show to take place.

Henry had warned me ahead of time that in terms of dining, the focus was on street food and comidas rapidas (fast food) like what you’d find on La 70 near Estadio.

Unfortunately, the restaurant Henry wanted to take us too had closed. As we continued walking, I noticed Yagé Bar (Carrera 68 #96-27).

We went inside to check it out, but were told they weren’t offering food. Strange, considering they have “restaurante” on the front sign, but maybe they only serve food during the day, and focus on drinks at night.

I noticed a painted mural through a hallway, and at the far end of a semi-outdoor back patio. There was a small stage with a few old couches, and a bunch of tables.

Three quarters of the patio was covered in case of rain, but the remaining quarter allowed you to see a bit of sky, as well as let some fresh air in.

I knew I wanted to have a drink here later, but first, we’d have to find a bite to eat.

Henry continued asking for suggestions on the street, and one guy recommended Lucas Burger.

It sounded as good as any place, so we walked further down Carrera 68 until we found it. We took one of their outdoor tables, and opened the menus to find typical Antioquian offerings.

Henry ordered a steak served with fries and an arepa with melted cheese, while I ordered a combo deal with cheeseburger, fries and a soda for 12,300 pesos ($6.50).

As we sat and chatted, my foreign friend couldn’t help but notice all the pre-teen and teenage girls walking around in short shorts, with exposed bellies. He had a point, there were a lot of young girls out and about. It was Saturday night, after all.

He suggested you wouldn’t see that kind of dress in a major Australian city, but perhaps I’ve forgotten what the girls down in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne wear as it wasn’t so shocking to me.

Once we wrapped up dinner, we walked a bit further down Carrera 68, which was more of the same mix of bars and fast food restaurants, only now things were getting livelier.

Promoters were inviting us into then-empty bars, and the street food vendors were cooking up a storm.

We returned to Yagé, which had filled up in the hour and a half we’d been away, and took a table near the front, and ordered a round of beers.

I was happy to see 3 Cordilleras and Apóstol on the menu.

It quickly became clear this was a rock bar at a minimum, and as patrons continued to make their way in during our time there, I realized it also catered to a punk/alternative/metal crowd too.

Our waiter’s name was “El Gato” (The Cat).

Safety

I knew Henry wouldn’t invite me to get to know Castilla with him if he felt it’d put me in any danger. Aside from confidence in my friend, there’s the city statistics which show Castilla’s homicide rate has been trending lower than the city average since 2011, with 42 homicides in 2013.

But, I still wouldn’t recommend foreigners go wandering around without a Colombian friend or two to accompany them.

Most foreigners experience with Castilla will be limited to accessing the Terminal del Norte.

One thing you have to be absolutely careful about is watching your belongings at the station, as thieves and pickpockets are known to operate there. If you’re alone, make sure you’ve always got some part of your body in contact with your belongings.

For example, if you need your hands to pay for a bus ticket at the window, put your large backpack or suitcase between your legs, so you can feel it if someone tries to snatch it away.

If you’re looking to get out of the Poblado bubble, and experience a different district with little to no gringos, Carrera 68 may be for you.

When you stop in for a beer at Yagé, say “hi” to El Gato from Medellin Living.

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Aranjuez and art are synonymous.

You might not think that, especially if you haven’t spent much time in Medellín, but it’s what I think of when someone mentions this northern city district.

Other things associated with Aranjuez:

1. Beautiful women: some people think the comuna is home to the prettiest girls in the city.

2. Danger: Just five years ago, the murder rate was quite high. But because the rates have dropped drastically, people now think about…

3. Improvement: like other once-rough districts, Aranjuez is improving and is becoming a must-see sector of the city.

4. Sightseeing: The Jardín Botánico is one of the most popular places to visit in Medellín, and there are several other great sites nearby.

I guess you’ll just have to see it for yourself to determine what Aranjuez means to you.

History

Aranjuez has not been around too long, maybe 100 years or so, but it feels old because only now is redevelopment starting to creep in.

There just under 200,000 people who live there. It is a working class community, and will probably remain that way into the foreseeable future.

It will also continue to draw visitors, and more so as foreigners get to know all of the comuna’s attractions.

Points of Interest

Aranjuez might have more sights to see per square kilometer than any area in the city.

I’ve already told you about the Jardín Botánico but what you might not know is that it’s home to a monkey that showed up last summer and hasn’t left.

I was lucky to come across him one day last July. He stared at me, wondering what I was doing with my camera.

The gardens are also home to several large iguanas, various fauna — including the orchid display during the annual Feria De Las Flores — and a great restaurant, In Situ.

Next door is Parque Explora, an interactive science museum that is a hit with most kids. And across the street is the Universidad de Antioquia, one of the best institutions of higher learning in the country, which has its own museum as well.

If that’s not enough to satisfy the artsy crowd, there the Cementerio San Pedro just a few blocks away, where some of the country’s most elite members have been buried, including a handful of ex-presidents. The good folks at Medellin Buzz just had a language exchange event there.

Farther north in the district, you can find the Casa Museo Pedro Nel Gómez, the former house of the famous artist.

He not only is known for his paintings but for designing the streets of the Laureles area like an Italian neighborhood, because he studied art in the European country.

His blueprints are on display at the museum atop Pueblito Paisa.

Food

Unlike many of the more traditional comunas, you actually have some variety here, not just Colombian food.

If you want fine dining, In Situ is the place to go.

Just make sure you’ve brought enough money because you’ll need to spend a bit to get full.

By the university, in the big courtyard area that sinks into the ground, there are a cluster of places to eat, one of them with sushi, and while it’s nothing special, it’s not terrible.

Nightlife

A great starting point is at Calle 93 and Carrera 49A, one of the corners of Parque Aranjuez. You’ll find a lot of bars and clubs in this area.

Zircux might be the best one.

You can also go to the area near the Universidad de Antioquia, which is becoming more and more popular but technically you’d be in Manrique and we’ll tell you about that comuna later.

Shopping Malls

There are none, not in the style of the big malls that are everywhere. Small business rules here.

Safety

It’s becoming monotonous to write this, so I’m sure you feel the same about reading it, but these kinds of posts require this section.

I would not walk around at night alone on dark, lonely streets. Otherwise, Aranjuez is fine.

At one point it wasn’t. In 2009, there were 93 murders for every 100,000 residents. That rate has been cut 66 percent.

With so many points of interest nearby the city wants to make the area safe for everyone, locals and visitors, and the numbers support their commitment.

I think it will only get better.

Cost of Living

But you can’t shake your reputation overnight and that will keep costs down.

You can find a comfortable, unfurnished, two-bedroom place for 400,000 pesos a month (about $210).

Maybe you should take advantage of that. It is hard to tell how much longer prices will stay that way.

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