One of those museums is the Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum. This is a place dedicated to keeping alive the life and work of this renowned Colombian artist. 

Does this sound like something you might like to check out? Then keep reading to learn more about the Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum!

Getting to the House Museum

The quickest way to get to the house museum is by taking a taxi or uber that will drop you directly at the museum. You can also take the metro line A and get off at the Universidades station.

Then take one of these two buses from the station:

• 022
• 023

However, if you don’t mind a short stroll (about 15 minutes), you can walk from the metro and give yourself a chance to explore the Aranjuez neighborhood. 

You’ll pass by some of the other popular tourist spots in Medellin, such as the botanical garden Joaquin Antonio Uribe, Parque Explora, Parque de Los Deseos, and the Parque Norte.

Once you arrive at the museum, you’ll need about an hour to go through the exhibits. Afterward, you can enjoy one of the libraries or seating areas around the outside of the building. Or, head back the way you came from to check out one of the aforementioned tourist spots.

Inside the House Museum

To get into the museum, you’ll be asked to make a voluntary contribution, which is intended for the maintenance of the place and other activities such as workshops or recreational activities. It’s pay-what-you-will, so you can pick how much you’re willing to donate. 

This house museum was built in 1975 by the artist himself on one of the Aranjuez neighborhood’s surrounding hills. When he built the house, Gomez wanted to fulfill the wishes of his wife, Giuliana Scalaberni, and create a space that could be dedicated to the city of Medellín.

This engineer, sculptor, and Colombian artist did just that by leaving a legacy of hundreds of frescoes, oil paintings, watercolors, pastels, drawings, engravings, and sculptures. His art aimed to paint a picture of Colombian life, showing the country’s political, economic, and cultural landscape.

While at the museum, you find a large collection of personal belongings of the artist as well as his art. This gives you a unique look into who the artist was and what his life might have been like back in the day.

The museum features four permanent exhibits:

• Collection of fresco murals
• Studio-workshop
• Tribute exhibition to Giuliana Scalaberni
• Meeting room 

It also features temporary exhibits that change all the time. We recommend visiting the museum’s website to find out about future exhibitions, schedules, and prices.

Other Cultural Spaces

In addition to the art exhibitions, you can find a great diversity of musical and artistic groups in Medellin that use these spaces to rehearse their performances. 

The house museum also has a small library where you can find information that relates to Gomez and his art processes. Plus, there’s a small auditorium where films, documentaries, or other cultural events are shown from time to time.

Behind the building, you’ll find a small garden full of native vegetation of the region and a play area for children. You can take in the incredible views of the Antioquian mountains and the city. 

Activities and WorkShops

In addition to being home to an important part of Colombia’s cultural history, you can use these city spaces to learn something new and why not, take some of Gomez’s artistic inspiration.

Ceramics Workshop

Aimed at anyone seven years or older, this workshop teaches you the basic techniques for making ceramics. You can enroll in the ceramics initiation course or skip to the advanced group if you feel adventurous or already have some experience in the field.

This workshop is perfect for having a friendly time with new people and practicing Spanish. Just keep in mind that you must bring your own utensils to learn to sculpt, mold, and paint. 

Tango Lessons

If you enjoy dancing, you might want to check out the tango lessons at the house museum. This is a free activity and a cool way to explore a bit more of Medellín’s dancing scene.

Sewing Workshops

You can also g to know Colombia’s cultural roots through design, patronage, and haute couture at a sewing workshop! This activity is also free to the public. However, you should bring your own tools necessary to sew and design.

Yoga Lessons

The museum sometimes puts on yoga lessons, which are ideal for anyone who wants to do some mindfulness meditation. The classes are free, and you don’t need to have any prior experience.

Just bring your mat and a small towel and join in the class!

Spend a Day in Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum

The Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum is a place where you can learn more about Colombian art. Whether you want to kill some time on a rainy day or learn a new skill, this artistic corner is a Medellin must-visit that you can’t miss!

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Address: Calle 52 #43

Opening hours: 10 am – 5.30 pm Monday to Saturday, 10 am – 4.30 pm Sundays and public holidays

Entry cost: $18,000 COP for foreigners, $12,000 COP for Colombians (50% discount for people over 60 and students, 30% discount for groups of more than 5)

Accessible for wheelchair users: Yes

Website: https://www.museodeantioquia.co/

How to get there

Metro

Take Linea A (Line A) to Parque Berrío (there are now announcements in English on the metro that this stop is for Museo de Antioquia). In the station, follow signs for the exit in the direction of Plaza Botero. Once outside, continue straight for one block, following the direction of the train line above. You’ll soon see a large black and white chequered building – this is the Rafael Uribe Palace of Culture, and the beginning of Plaza Botero. Turn left once you pass the palace and across the plaza is Museo de Antioquia.

Taxi

All taxis drivers will know where Museo de Antioquia is. Simply say ‘Museo de Antioquia (like ‘moo-seh-o de An-ti-oh-key-a’) por favor’ and they’ll take you there. Coming from Poblado – and depending on traffic – it should cost around $10,000 COP.

History of Museo de Antioquia

The museum was first founded in 1881 at a different location in Medellín. By 1997, the museum was in significant debt and had very few visitors. After trying to purchase pieces by Medellín-born artist Fernando Botero in installments, Botero promised that he would make a donation if the museum could improve. These donations include the now sculpture, painting, and drawing rooms.

With the support of the new director of the museum, the governor of Antioquia, and the mayor of Medellín, the board of the museum began looking for another location. It was Mayor Juan Gómez Martínez who suggested using the old Municipal Palace in El Centro for the project. The idea coincided well with plans to renovate the deteriorated part of the city, and soon after, Plaza Botero began being constructed too.

At its current location, Museo de Antioquia opened October 15^th, 2000. All 23 statues in Plaza Botero were inaugurated a year later. Since Botero first donated to Museo de Antioquia, he has since invested much of his artwork in Medellín for free. He is widely respected and praised by Paisas for his dedication to the city.

Who is Fernando Botero?

Even if you’re not familiar with Fernando Botero, you’ve most likely seen his work all around the world – including Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Élysées in Paris. In Colombia, Botero is certainly the most prolific painter and sculptor.

He was born in Medellín in 1932. He initially went to matador school to learn to become a bullfighter, but after changing his mind, he went on to pursue the arts, living overseas and studying the works of famous artists in Madrid, Paris, and Florence.

Pieces by Botero are best known for featuring plump, rotund people, animals, and objects. The artist did not consider his subjects “fat” but rather considered it an exploration of proportion, volume, and form. His works are identifiable for their distinctive and playful style, yet still, explore important themes.

Botero’s subjects range from still life to local characters and cityscapes here in Antioquia, to bullfighting and the culture surrounding it, and the increasing violence in the era of Pablo Escobar – all of which are done in his signature style of ‘Boterismo’. Currently, there are more than 100 works by Fernando Botero in Museo de Antioquia.

What to see in the museum

Before heading into the museum, take a moment to wander among the bronze Botero statues scattered around Plaza Botero. The sculptures combined with the looming Gothic design of Rafael Uribe Palace of Culture make a perfect photo opportunity and are one of the best free things to do in Medellín.

Once inside, the primary exhibit of the museum is the comprehensive collection of Fernando Botero’s paintings and sculptures, located on the third floor. The museum staff recommends starting here with Botero’s art and working your way down. If you’d like a member of staff to give you more information, tours take place daily at 2 pm for free in Spanish only. Alternatively, English-speaking tours are available but have to be booked in advance and cost a small fee based on the group size.

There are a number of other exhibits, including a hall featuring the works of international artists (mostly modern art), an exhibit featuring religious and colonial art from the period of conquest in South America, and much more. The exhibitions change on a rotational basis, so we suggest checking the website beforehand to see what’s on display for your visit.

For a little bit of nature while in Museo de Antioquia, there’s a picturesque courtyard to sit and enjoy the sunshine. Additionally, the museum gift shop sells quaint, locally-made items and replicas of artwork from the museum – fantastic as gifts for friends and family back home. Elsewhere, a café and restaurant are located on the first floor, for when you need to refuel having wandered the museum for hours.

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Ciclovia

The traffic in Medellín on Sundays is noticeably quieter; roads have fewer cars and the air even feels fresher. While Colombian families tend to socialize in their homes on Sundays, the streets are also quieter because of the Ciclovia – when one of the main roads in the city is shut for people to cycle, skate and run down. From 7am to 1pm, Avenida Poblado blocks all car access, stretching from Envigado in the south, up to El Centro in the north.

EnCicla is a free bike rental service in Medellín and is available for tourists as well as locals and visitors. To sign up, you need to have a Civica card and register online before confirming in-person at the headquarters in Centro (Carrera 53 #40A – 31). Foreigners on a tourist visa can use the service for seven consecutive days, while visa-holders have unlimited use. There are several bike points and bike paths all over Medellín, as the city becomes increasingly easier to explore on two wheels.

Museo de Arte Moderno (MAMM)

Located in Ciudad del Rio, MAAM is one of the coolest hangout spots in the city, and on Sundays in particular, is perfect for culture and people-watching. The museum itself is chic and has a range of exhibits from local and international artists, including paintings, sculptures and audial experiences. Visitors can equally soak in the incredible views from MAMM’s rooftop, which overlooks the Medellín skyline and is great for impressive photos of the city. Standard entrance costs $12,000 COP and $9,000 COP for children under 12.

There’s additionally a theater in the building where guests can enjoy films from around the world, including ones in English. Tickets are surprisingly cheap (around $8,000 COP per person) and movie choices vary from classics to new blockbusters. The museum also sometimes has special events showing films outdoors where they project the picture onto the building’s back wall.

If museums aren’t your thing, one of the best parts of MAAM is the grassy area at the back of it. Locals and foreigners alike flock here on Sundays to enjoy a picnic, listen to music and walk their dogs. The space has a very laid-back vibe that’s ideal for a chilled Sunday with friends, and there’s a Ganso & Castor, Crepes & Waffles plus other cute eateries nearby too.

Jardín Botánico

A quick walk from Universidad metro station, Jardín Botánico (the botanical garden) boasts a huge selection of plants and trees dotted across 13.2 hectares. Sundays are the busiest day at Jardín Botánico but still aren’t too overcrowded. Most visitors arrive early and set up elaborate picnics, while others simply stroll with an ice cream and admire the nature. For the wildlife-explorers, there are ponds in the garden, home to fish and turtles, as well as big iguanas that freely roam around the place.

Jardín Botánico is not only colorful and picturesque, it also has a tienda to buy plants, pots and all things garden-related, as well as restaurants and cafes, and events like music and cultural festivals held here throughout the year. Visit on a Sunday and keep an eye out for quinceañera photo shoots – girls wearing elaborate dresses and posing among the flowers is sure to bring a smile to your face.

Parque Comfama Arví 

While Parque Arví is an obvious choice for Sundays, the lesser-known Parque Comfama is arguably even better. Comfama is a Colombian organization that promotes healthy living and happiness through a range of activities, classes and experiences. Their location in Arví is really family-friendly and a fantastic day out. From kids’ games to archery and high ropes courses, the park has loads of things to do, and the scenery is beautiful. If you visit, be sure to do the zipling – it’s well worth the wait to soar above the tree tops and see Parque Arví from a bird’s eye view.

Only Colombians and visa-holders can be registered with Comfama, however, non-members are also welcome to visit but entrance prices will be higher. Non-members’ fee is $18,000 COP, while members can pay from as little as $2,300 COP depending on your income or stratum. If you decide not to check out Comfama, the metrocable journey up to Parque Arví is an incredible Sunday activity in its own right – remember a camera and prepare for stomach-churning heights.

Market-hopping

Medellín is famous for its markets, and while the larger ones like Plaza Minorista and La América aren’t open on Sundays, there are a few smaller markets that do take place. Parque La Presidenta is a farmer’s market that happens in Poblado every Sunday on Calle 8 #42-25. Vendors here sell everything from bread to honey, herbs, arepas and more. The market is open from 8 am to 1 pm and is a wonderful place for breakfast and organic products. Elsewhere, in Ciudad del Rio (Calle 24 #48-28) there are often artisanal markets held outside of Mercardo del Rio. These independent markets sell jewelry, clothes, vegan and specialty foods, and are best found through Facebook events or Compás Urbano. After shopping, eat at Mercardo del Rio – the food court has a wide selection of cuisines and a trendy atmosphere.

Although not a weekly occurrence, the first Sunday of every month there is a sustainability market over in Conquistadores, next to Unicentro Mall (Carrera 66B #34A-76). Stalls here have all sorts of items from producers in Medellín, such as fruits, coconut oil and coffee. This market is brilliant for healthier lifestyles, as well as supporting smaller, local businesses.

Hiking

For those who prefer to work up a sweat on a Sunday, there’s an abundance of day hikes in Medellín. Cerro de las Tres Cruces in Laureles is a relatively easy 45-minute uphill walk, reaching a summit that provides unforgettable views over most of the city. On Sundays, the top is normally filled with Paisas flying kites, listening to reggaetón and sipping a beer – that or working out using the outdoor gym. Another fantastic hike in Laureles is Cerro el Volador, which takes around the same amount of time and is just as picturesque. Not to mention, this hike is known for attracting butterflies and even has a butterfly garden mid-way up.

Outside of Laureles, Arenales is a hike beyond Envigado that takes around three to four hours and is slightly more advanced. The route winds through dirt roads and lakes (your feet will 100% get wet) and ends at an awesome waterfall. It’s certainly a tiring day activity but is ideal to escape the city and has views that are reminiscent of Colombia’s coffee region. Alternatively, Cerro Pan de Azucar is in the north of Medellín and is known for being the ‘backdoor’ to Parque Arví. The route starts way up in the hills in Communa 8 – where the streets feel vertical – and follows a clear path to the top. Along the way, there’s a huge ‘Jardín’ sign sitting on the side of the hill, snack points and lookout platforms. As with other hikes, plenty of locals at the top spend the day here with their dogs, flying kites and tucking into a picnic.

While Sunday is generally quieter in Medellín, it certainly isn’t boring. From classic lazy Sunday activities to physically-demanding hikes, there’s tons to keep busy and make the most of the beautiful the postcard-worthy city. If you have any favorite hidden gems for a Sunday, let us know in the comments!

Remember to check things to do in Medellín on Saturdays.

If you are looking for other fun activities to do while you are in Medellín, don’t forget to visit our article “Top 10 events of the week in Medellín” where you can find a variety of events: from art exhibitions, to movie nights, free language exchanges, classical music concerts, theater nights, gastronomy events and much more!

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Museums, I love them. Art, Science, History, Special Interest – it doesn’t matter, so long as I get inspired by something. I have been to many museums including the Louvre, all the Smithsonian museums, a Sex museum in Amsterdam and even one dedicated to Pinball, to name a few personal highlights.

Here in Medellín I visited the Antioquia Museum and the Museum of Modern Art (MAMM) within my first week of moving here. I was so impressed by the MAMM that I became a one year member for 80,000 pesos ($27). This was an easy decision since I live a 15-minute walk away. Now I can go to independent films every weekend for 5,000 pesos ($1.75), attend lectures and simply drop by for a quick visit anytime.

However, I knew there had to be more museums to discover. Indeed, there are at least 22 museums within the city limits, many of them free. I am going to focus on three museums in this article.  Each of these I believe are definitely worth visiting: the Water Museum, the University of Antioquia Museum and the Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum.

The above photo of the Water Museum is courtesy of Museo del Agua.

Water Museum

The Water Museum (Museo de Agua) is administered by EPM (Medellin’s public utility company which operates in the water, sewer, electricity and gas sectors). It is a small museum that strives to give the visitor knowledge about water in its different states. There are 9 rooms, each with a different focus. The Water Museum is also a popular museum for children.

First of all, there is a very dramatic interactive video display that attempts to convey the origin of the universe, complete with explosions, surround sound and bright lights. This transitions to information about ancient civilizations and their innovative developments with water.

Then, there are detailed rooms recreating different Colombian ecosystems. These lead to rooms focusing on how to create sustainable cities, emerging innovations and the part EPM plays in keeping Medellin’s water safe and protected.

I found the Water Museum fascinating. Especially impressive is that all visitors are assigned their own personal tour guide (several guides are bilingual) to help explain and answer questions. This is included in the 6,000 peso ($2.10) entrance fee.

Located in Barefoot Park (Parque de Los Pies – worthy of a visit) and in front of the EPM building, the Water Museum can be reached via Metro (Alpujarra station), MetroPlus (Plaza Mayor stop) or using EnCicla bicycles (there is a station next to the museum).

Admission is 6,000 pesos. Or free if you are over 60 years old, under 5 years old, or living in Estrato 1, 2 or 3 and show your EPM bill. It is open 8:30am – 4pm, Tuesday – Friday and 10:30 – 5pm, weekends and holidays.

Address: Carrera 58 #42-125

University of Antioquia Museum (MUUA)

The University of Antioquia is one of Colombia’s oldest public universities, founded in 1803. And it has over 30,000 students. It is a gorgeous campus, full of gardens, fountains and imposing concrete buildings. Easily reached by Metro (University station), visitors can gain entry to the campus by simply showing a copy of their passport or a cedula.

The MUUA, as the museum is known, is located on the main square. Founded in 1942, it has an impressive collection of over 20,000 archaeological pieces on the Anthropology floor. The Natural Sciences floor contains 18,000 pieces including naturalized animals, skeletons, study skins, wet-preserved specimens, minerals, fossils, and scientific illustrations. In addition, there are two floors devoted to temporary art expositions.

I have visited the MUUA three times. Noteworthy are the rotating art shows, which are diverse in medium and theme. Plus, Jardín Botanical Gardens is across the street (free admission).

There is a gift shop, small auditorium and library. Furthermore, students are available to answer questions and provide insight on the exhibits.

Admission is free. Hours are 12 – 5pm, Tuesday – Saturday.

Address: Calle 67 # 53-108, Bloque 15

Pedro Nel Gomez House Museum

Finally, the last of the museums I’ll cover is probably one of the least visited, hidden away in the Aranjuez neighborhood (a 15-minute walk from the Botanical Garden).

This museum founded in 1975 was the family home of Pedro Nel Gomez, one of Colombia’s most important artists of the 20^th century. His renown is due to his vast and varied body of work, which ranges from massive murals, oil and watercolor paintings, pastels, engravings, sculptures plus architectural and engineering projects.

The house itself still contains original furniture, family portraits, personal effects and expansive gardens. There are 160 square meters of murals and 2000 pieces of art on rotating display. In addition, the library contains 5000 documents and 2000 books. It is a staggering amount of work. And there is a very organic feel to the way it is laid out.

On the day of my two hour visit I saw no one else. Even the security guards were scarce, with room after room unattended.

Admission is free. Hours are Monday – Saturday, 9am – 5pm. Highly recommended.

Address: Carrera 51b # 85-24

About Sonja

Sonja is from Whidbey Island, WA. She has traveled to 46 countries but never wanted to settle down in any of them until she discovered Medellin. She is currently living here in Medellín temporarily until she figures out how to be a permanent resident.

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They finally finished a couple of months ago and I recently had the chance to visit.

Guess what?

It’s just as awesome as we thought it would be.

A Peruvian Design

The renovation began as a contest for architecture firms: the best design would win and go on to become the new face of the MAMM (Modern Art Museum of Medellín).

This winner was a firm from Peru called 51-1. Based on their idea, the Colombian firm Ctrl+g developed the construction plan.

New additions to the larger and much-improved museum include:

• Additional exhibit exhibition
• Movie and music theater that seats 250 people
• Spaces for education and cultural programs
• Multiple-use rooms
• Ganso & Castor Cafe
• Bookstore
• Store for handcrafted products
• An open archive
• A new parking lot (adding much-needed spots to the neighborhood)

Support for the Museum: Amigos del MAMM

As you can probably imagine, an expansion this large costs serious money.

24 billion pesos to be exact ($7.6 million by today’s exchange rate).

Half of that money was provided by the government, and the other half was private money. Supporters are called “Amigos del MAMM” and get special benefits.

Support starts at 80,000 pesos ($25) and tops off at 3 million pesos ($955) for which you get varied benefits like free entry to the museum for a year and a number of signed works by artists, among other benefits listed here.

The Layout

As of the re-opening, we now have a practical layout.

First Floor

While before we had the entrance to the museum facing west toward Avenida Las Vegas, it now faces east toward the park in Ciudad del Río, on a new plaza which they named “Plaza de los Colores.”

On this plaza, we have the new café-restaurant Ganso y Castor, with another location on Vía Provenza and soon opening in Manila as well.

By this café, we have bathrooms, the shop for handcrafted products, the ticket office, coat check service and exhibit rooms A, B and C, where temporary exhibits will be held.

On the North End of the building, we have the bookstore, Creole-style Bonuar restaurant, the entrance to the parking garage and the Museum gift shop.

Second, Third, and Fourth Floors

The second floor holds the museum offices and the third holds Labs 1, 2 and 3 and the movie and music theater where they also host conferences.

In the labs, we see exhibits like “La Ciudad y Los Niños” where children’s art from workshops taking place in several areas around the city is shown.

The fourth floor holds the exhibits in rooms D, E, and F.

Right now, these rooms are filled with Débora Arango‘s work as well as a compilation other artists’ prints and works.

To the side, a sitting area designed in spirals.

Fifth Floor: The Green Areas

The rooftop terrace is, according to the design by 51-1, will be a large garden.

It already holds a variety of plants, but the plan is for it to be a large oasis of green, bringing together modern buildings, a high-rise landscape, and nature.

What You Need to Know

Entry is still 8,000 pesos ($2.55) for adults, 5,000 pesos ($1.60) for students, kids younger than 12, and adults older than 60.

The last Friday of every month between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. is free entry for everyone. People living in strata 1, 2 and 3 enter free by at any time if they show a public utility bill.

See the full museum event calendar to find out what’s happening.

This renovation is stunning, and I’d like to extend an invitation to all our readers to visit, watch a movie, check out the plaza, take a photo with the great view from the terraces.

The brand new, expanded MAMM is here for all of us. Let’s visit it!

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The cemetery as a museum is a beautiful and complex idea because it makes us question our thoughts on life, death and art.

Cementerio Museo de San Pedro is the cemetery best known for its “inhabitants,” its luxurious mausoleums and recently for its cultural agenda. It is located just a couple blocks north of Hospital Metro Station.

The History of Medellín Cemeteries

Originally, in the 1800s, Medellín’s cemeteries were not cemeteries at all. Bodies were buried in the church atrium. This tradition was inherited from European customs and expressed a belief that the proximity to the altar would guarantee a soul’s salvation.

Concerns about public health were ignored at the time; even after the first cemetery. San Benito was built in Medellín in 1809 across the Santa Elena creek and bodies continued to be buried in both churches and this designated space outside the city’s boundaries.

The second cemetery was built just twenty years later and was named “San Lorenzo” but commonly called “El Cementerio de Los Pobres” or “The Cemetery of the Poor.”

The public health situation, however, wasn’t improving and in 1842 the city’s higher class built a private cemetery first called “San Vicente de Paúl.” The name was later changed to the current “Cementerio San Pedro”.

The cemetery was declared a museum in 1998. There are still plenty of spaces open, some for rent for a four year period and others for sale for permanent placement.

Medellín Mirrored in a Museum

It has been contemplated by anthropologists in Medellín that what makes Cementerio Museo de San Pedro so different from the previous cemeteries is the fact that it mirrors the city exceptionally.

Landmarks that mark our most transited spots in the city correspond directly with some of the most important mausoleums in the graveyard.

Also, the history of the population’s behavior inside and outside of the home is revealed through their after-death wishes.

Medellín’s artistic tendencies, its musical tastes and its political history is clear in the stone cold mausoleums that reflect the City of Eternal Spring.

Pedro Justo Berrío’s mausoleum, for example, mirrors our well-known Parque Berrío. With large pieces of Italian marble, it is one of the most noticeable mausoleums in the plaza just outside the church, the most expensive space in after-death real estate.

Other mausoleums that reference the city are ex-President Carlos E. Restrepo’s resting place that echoes the university hot-spot Barrio Carlos E. Restrepo, and former professor Dr. Luis López de Mesa’s towering anchor, which references The University of Antioquia, among many other influencial figures.

Paisa culture’s “behind closed doors” habits are also exposed in the way they’re buried.

Some families chose to have their housekeepers and other help buried with them inside the mausoleum while others chose to keep them with the family but just outside the family space.

A number of mausoleums are actually built the way houses were built at a certain time, making eighties and nineties-style urban architecture very clear: in this case, aluminum doors and a foyer inside, some contain photos and other memorabilia.

Finally, Pablo Escobar’s narco-culture doesn’t escape the tell-all mirror of the city cemetery. At one point, a mausoleum belonging to one of Pablo Escobar’s hitmen had loud music playing around the clock.

It wasn’t uncommon for hitmen to be taken out to clubs after their death, tying together music, alcohol and death in sicario traditions. (This is depicted in the movie Rosario Tijeras.)

The public utilities company (EPM) shut it down several times, but  it was mysteriously turned on again in a matter of hours.

After many complaints and power outages, the cemetery informed the deceased’s mother that unless the music was turned off she would lose rights to the mausoleum.

Who to Look For

The list of the famous and the wealthy buried at the museum is extensive. Among other ex-presidents, the cemetery is home to Mariano Ospina Rodríguez  and son Pedro Nel Ospina who governed  from 1857-1861 and 1922-1926 respectively.

San Pedro holds the remains of artists like Pedro Nel Gómez, and Bernardo Vieco, whose work can be seen on other mausoleums.

Among the wealthy lie Jose María “Pepe” Sierra, Luis Eduardo Yepes and Carlos Coriolano Amador, with their respective families in “La plaza de los Mausoleos.”

However, there are two particular tombs that stand out due to the fact that they contain no remains and are strictly symbolic.

The first, Jorge Isaacs, author of one of the most read Colombian novels María (1867), whose remains were exhumed and sent to Cali, has a sculpture of a woman who was first made nude and later clothed after the cemetery administration’s requests.

The second belongs to Argentinian tango star Carlos Gardel who died young in a plane crash arriving in Olaya Herrera Airport in 1935.

His remains were also exhumed after a few months and sent to Buenos Aires.

Cultural Events

Although some may avoid the cemetery scene considering it morbid, San Pedro is anything but gloomy, it’s also known for its cultural events and tours.

A guided tour can be arranged according to your specific interests (anthropology, history, architecture, etc.) during the day and nocturnal tours are available upon request (6 p.m. to 8 p.m.).

The cemetery is home to a variety of literature and art programs, however, a particularly interesting nocturnal event that takes place at the museum is the “Noche de Luna Llena,” it takes place every full moon and started in 2000 but has only been happening constantly since its resurrection (so to speak) in 2013.

The event consists of a nocturnal tour and a cultural presentation, such as dance or drama, done by local artists.

This Cemetery-Museum is a dynamic place that welcomes people of all ages to get involved and reunites us with the idea that death is a part of life and can be observed, not only with melancholy, but also with artistic perspective and awe.

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Photos: Main image, Jorge Isaacs – David Lee

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Located in Bicentenario Park of Medellín – behind the Pablo Tobón Uribe Theatre – its purpose is to offer a space to the armed conflict victims and their family to dignify, collect their memories, and disseminate their views on the violent cycle of town and country.

Despite its premise of “remembering for not repeating,” I found very few Colombians who are actually aware of the existence of such a museum in the city, to my surprise.

Apparently it’s more appealing to the foreigners passing by, taking into consideration that the history of Colombia is a touristic motive.

Main Exhibit Room

I was a bit disappointed by the fact that I was greeted by a couple of kids at the entrance, with no guidance on where to start.

I made my way across the second floor by entering a large room through the back door across the hall as I was fascinated by the testimonials written on the walls.

So when you enter the building, look for a big black door next to the Reception office. That would be the Main Exhibit Room, the one you should start with.

Inside, a tour guide leads you through the whole room. For a comprehensive experience, take the time to use the interactive platforms; they offer an amazing trip back in time.

Take a look at the interactive maps focused on a certain issue of interest to see areas of Medellín affected by massacres for examples, or to read about the peace process between the Colombian government and guerrilla groups.

These interactive screens allow you to search within the history of the conflict by keywords that would lead you to newspaper articles on that matter written at the time it happened.

The Main Exhibit Room is the part of the museum where you can spend an entire day. It includes comprehensive information, taking you on a trip from the beginning of the armed conflict to the present.

And even though everything is stored in pictures and innovative platforms, I assure you it feels very real, like you’ve been part of it all. And that will give you goosebumps.

Temporary Exhibition Rooms

Going down the stairs to the first floor, you find three temporary exhibition rooms dedicated to the victims.

The first one pays a tribute to the farmers of Las Pavas (in the southern part of the Bolívar department), who have been displaced three times from their homeland in the past decade.

The Las Pavas farm has been emblematic on the issue of restitution of land, as it is an example of peaceful community resistance, awarded with the National Peace Award in 2013.

You find in this room videos and photographs telling the story of these farmers, which you can watch while lying down in the available hammock.

There’s also a wall with words of encouragement written on various shaped and colored paperboards by people who never lost hope in the long road toward peace. Feel free to write your own; there are markers and paperboards at disposal.

The second temporary exhibition room is called Video Verónica and has a support room right next to it. These rooms tell the story of the widows and mothers that lost their husbands and sons in the armed conflict.

Touching photographs are on the walls of the room, as a reminder of one of the many consequences of this conflict: broken families and immense pain.

The photos are black and white, but the victims are highlighted by having their faces colored as a way to keep their memory vivid.

The third temporary exhibition room takes us to the topographical history of Medellín from 1770 to 2011.

Maps and photographs of life a long time ago in this city definitely deserve a closer look. It’s amazing to see such a transformation of Medellín over the years.

Final Thoughts

The entire museum gathers powerful stories, images and testimonials of victims’ families that can break even the coldest hearts.

It is also a great resource for those interested in one of the largest armed conflicts in the history of South America. Not to mention that if you’re doing any research or academic piece on the matter, it’s mandatory you come down here and pay it a visit.

All in all, Museo Casa de la Memoria is that type of museum that offers you a unique experience and understanding of a controversial history that led to Colombia becoming the amazing country it is today.

How to Get There

I went there right before Christmas day, so El Centro was total chaos. I wandered around the area for so long that I cancelled my running session that evening.

The easiest way to get there (besides taking a cab) is to take the metro to the Parque Berrío station.

From there, take Calle 52 until you get to Avenida Oriental, cross it without changing your direction, walk straight ahead on Avenida la Playa for about six blocks.

When you see the Pablo Tobón Uribe Theatre on your left, the museum is right behind it.

Admission is free and photos are allowed. 

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I recently made a return visit to Medellín’s Planetarium located north of the city center in the Zona Norte.

The Planetarium, officially known as the Planetario Municipal Jesús Emilio Ramírez González, is a modern and beautiful planetarium that is definitely worth a stop if you are visiting the city.

The planetarium initially opened to the public in 1984 and was heralded as the most modern in existence in all of Latin America.

The planetarium was named after Jesús Emilio Ramírez González, a local priest who was dedicated to the sciences and who was considered the most eminent scientist in the country at the time of the planetarium’s opening.

The museum was completely renovated in 2006 to help keep up with the changing times, and in 2011 the planetarium began being administered by the adjacent Parque Explora which developed and expanded the educational components by incorporating new technologies and more interactive elements.

The highlight of the planetarium is the large 57-foot dome which features a massive screen that absolutely immerses you in the films.

Entrance to the planetarium currently costs 12,000 pesos ($5.75) which includes an assigned entry time for the films in the dome.

There were two short 30-minute or so films being featured during my visit, both of which are high quality productions that you would find at any planetarium back in the States, the only difference being that they are dubbed in Spanish (without subtitles).

The first film was Back to the Moon For Good about the Google Lunar XPrize and the potential for permanent settlements on the moon.

The second film was We Are Aliens! exploring the necessary elements of create and sustain life and the current efforts to identify living organisms on other planets.

Whether you speak Spanish or not, you’ll probably still enjoy the visual journey through space and the galaxy in this immersive experience.

The dome also shows periodic special events such as their recent shows celebrating the 40th anniversary of Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon.

Either before or after the films you should also explore the two floors of interactive science exhibits and informative displays about our universe and galaxy.

The museum component is all very interactive and I found it to be quite interesting.

As a bonus, the exhibits also have an English translation to go alongside the Spanish, which isn’t always common in Medellín’s museum.

You can learn about the solar system, the chance of life in other galaxies, and play with demonstrations of various scientific phenomena from gravity, to the Coriolis effect, to what causes the Aurora Borealis, and much more.

I’m sure you’ll learn something new and interesting as you make your way through the various exhibits.

It’s quite easy to pass a few hours at the planetarium itself and you can also couple your visit with a stop into the Kaldi Kaffe located on the first floor for food and refreshments as you take in the activity of Parque de los Deseos, a large open-air plaza, just outside the windows.

One could easily fill a day or two exploring all that this part of town has to offer, including:

• Planetarium
• Parque de los Deseos
• Jardín Botánico, the free botanical gardens
• Parque Explora, an interactive science museum and aquarium
• Parque Norte, a year-round amusement park–all of which are located adjacent to the Universidad de Antioquia

The planetarium is easily accessible by metro as it is located immediately adjacent to the Universidad metro station.

If you have any interest in space and the greater universe, you should definitely plan to make a trip to the Planetario de Medellín, it is one of the better museums in town and is certainly worth a visit.

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Continuing my quest to visit Medellín’s lesser known museums, I headed out to visit Museo Casa Gardeliana, a small museum dedicated to tango music and Carlos Gardel, located in Medellín’s Manrique neighborhood.

Carlos Gardel (1890-1935) was a French-Argentine singer, songwriter, composer and actor, and one of the biggest international superstars in the history of tango.

Even if you, like me, know nothing about tango and have never heard of Carlos Gardel, you’ve probably at least heard his popular song Por una Cabeza, which has been featured in numerous Hollywood flicks including The Scent of a Woman, Schindler’s List, True Lies and many others.

Gardel’s legacy and stardom had even lead to nationalistic disputes about his birthplace–with both Uruguay and Argentina contending that he was actually from their respective countries.

Gardel laid a false trail regarding his birthplace for a great deal of time, however it is most commonly accepted that he was born in France, and grew up in Buenos Aires.

His French birth would have required him to register with the French military during World War I and is likely the reason he pursued Uruguayan citizenship as they maintained a policy of neutrality during the war.

In the 1920s and 30s, tango began growing in popularity throughout Europe, and Carlos Gardel was the face of this movement, particularly due to his involvement and depictions of the dance in film.

Gardel is particularly credited with bringing tango music from its “lower-class” origins to something more mainstream and acceptable among the middle-class.

At the height of his career, Gardel was killed in a plane crash in Medellín at Olaya Herrera Airport along with a number of fellow musicians, including long time collaborator and lyricist, Alfredo Le Pera, and a number of his business associates.

His death was a tragedy throughout Latin American and for the millions of fans of tango music.

His body was taken through New York City, Rio de Janeiro, and Montevideo so mourners could pay their respects before ultimately being laid to rest in a cemetery in Buenos Aires.

Medellín may not immediately come to mind when you hear the words tango, but with his death this city developed an immediate connection to tango, which it maintains to this day through the Casa Gardeliana museum as well as the International Tango Festival which takes place every year in June.

The Casa Gardeliana museum itself consists of a colorful little house nestled within the bustling Manrique neighborhood.

Manrique is located up on the hill in the area above the Jardín Botánico and the Universidad de Antioquia.

I was advised not to venture up there by myself, so my girlfriend accompanied me on my visit.

The house is a large room chock full of paintings, posters, memorabilia, and artistic representations of Carlos Gardel.

There are various informational postings within the house with details about Gardel, tango music and his influence throughout the world. As is common in these smaller museums, the information is only presented in Spanish.

Museo Casa Gardeliana also offers workshops, expositions and other periodic events around the subject of tango.

I found my quick trip to visit Casa Gardeliana to be interesting and worthwhile.

I learned more about tango music and was offered a unique glimpse into Medellín’s connection to a style of music that I’d previously only associated with Argentina.

Not only that, but I got to explore a new neighborhood that I never really hear much about, nor had a reason to visit.

Manrique is a vibrant neighborhood that is worth checking out–I got the impression that they don’t see a ton of gringos up there.

Following our visit to the museum, we wandered around the area, window shopping and enjoying the views of the city from this hillside neighborhood.

Eventually we stumbled upon a cart selling arepas stuffed with cheese and covered in condensed milk, which was my first time trying this rich but delicious treat.

If you’d like to visit Casa Gardeliana or the Manrique neighborhood, you can take the metro to the Universidad or Hospital station and then catch a taxi to take you up the hill for around 5,000 pesos ($3).

You can read more about Carlos Gardel and the history of tango on Wikipedia.

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First things first, it’s not really a park. Or rather how you would conventionally think of a park. It’s more of an interactive museum of science and technology, with an aquarium and a few dinosaurs thrown in for added measure.

Located by the Estacion Universidades and opposite the Jardín Botánico, it is hard to miss Parque Explora. Four large red Lego type blocks announce themselves as soon as you exit the metro.

On the weekends it is not difficult to know where to go as it can be very busy and massive queues can form. Please note it’s not open on Mondays.

The entrance fee is slightly expensive for Colombia with a cover of 20,000 pesos ($10). Students get in for 18,000 pesos ($9) and kids go free with adults.

It’s also interesting to note that people who live in estratos 1-3 (neighborhoods’ numerically arranged according to their level of prosperity with 1 being the least developed, 6 the most developed), get in for free when they present their utilities bill – another great demonstration of how Medellin looks to ensure that those from the less developed areas get access to activities, entertainment and education.

As you enter the park you will walk across a map of Medellín. I love a good map and this is truly one of the best I have had the pleasure of viewing. Yup, I get pleasure from viewing maps.

It’s actually a series of photos of Medellin from a bird’s eye view and put together so you can wander across and you can try to identify where your block/flat/house/hostel is. I spent too long on this (maybe 30 minutes) but if you like maps (lots of travelers do I imagine) then you will like this.

The park itself is home to over 300 different interactive experiences and has three distinct interactive areas divided into neuroscience, physics and communication.

It also has an aquarium (the largest freshwater aquarium in Latin America, don’t you know), a terrarium (with snakes, frogs, turtles and the like), an outdoor dinosaur exhibition and a 3D movie hall.

You have to choose your route around the Parque, and I went for the aquarium and Mind, the World Inside exhibition hall.

The aquarium, though not necessarily large, is full of aquatic life (funny that) and there is a cool Amazon basin section with a massive tree that replicates the aquatic life of the Amazon river.

The signs and explanations of the exhibitions are both in Spanish and English. This is great for anyone who wants to test their Spanish.

You will end up spending quite a bit of time learning about certain fish (quite specialist knowledge but I suppose you never know when it might come in handy).

The staff at Parque Explora are very friendly and willing to tell you more about the little Nemo fish should you wish to test out your Spanish listening skills as well. Many of them seem to be students from the local universities that are keen to share their knowledge.

I found out all about the reproduction processes for some random fish, which again gave some new, though I suspect utterly useless vocabulary.

The Mind, Inside exhibition hall was full of fun interactive games about the human mind and the way we function and communicate.

There was a rather interesting section about the way great orators in history communicate and features speeches from famous historical figures from Che Guevara to Martin Luther King.

Although some of the different activities didn’t work, those that did were informative and fun. Kids will especially enjoy them and there is a room which makes everything smaller and then bigger at the same time. Quite the optical illusion.

After exploring the park, which you could quite happily do for several hours (depending on how much you like maps and knowing how those cheeky Nemo fish reproduce), there is a row of restaurants for you to grab a bite to eat.

The food is slightly on the expensive side and it might be worth waiting to head back to the Botanical Gardens if you’re hungry.

However, Parque Explora is definitely worth a visit for those inquisitive souls, young or old, and combined with a jaunt to Jardín Botánico, can make a great little day trip.

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