In 2015, Medellín Living as a publication continued to grow and mature. We published 161 new stories and surpassed 650,000 visits and 1.3 million page views. These are the highlights.

Top 10 Most Visited Posts Published in 2015

Jeff has a knack for picking topics you want to read about, as shown by the fact that he wrote all of the stories below. We’re lucky to have him.

• 8 Expensive Things in Medellín
• 10 Surprisingly Cheap Things in Medellín
• 4 Inexpensive Neighborhoods for Apartment Rentals
• Updated: Cost of Living for a Couple
• Papa John’s Pizza Opens
• Iglesia de la Veracruz
• Iglesia Jesús Nazareno and “Street of the Dead”
• Catedral Basílica Metropolitana: Medellín’s Most Important Church
• Apartment Rental Guide: Searching for an Apartment
• Bancolombia’s Headquarters, a LEED Gold Certified Building

Culture

Ximena is our culture vulture, offering a Colombian perspective on new books, movies, TV shows, and the work of local artists. She wrote most of the stories below.

• Museo Casa de la Memoria: Dedicated to Victims of Armed Conflict
• The History of Cementerio Museo de San Pedro
• Celebrating Christmas with a Paisa Family
• What Lies Behind the Use of the Word “Gringo”
• Colombian Humor, A Particular View of Everyday Life
• Finca de Don Aristides: Visiting the Juan Valdez of the Silleteros
• Was Gabo an Irishman? A Literary Bridge Between Cultures
• Colombia: A Nation of Festivos (Holidays)
• Colombia’s Music Revolution
• The Museum of Modern Art Expansion

Food, Cafés and Restaurants

Trying new restaurants is a passion of mine, and while we covered fewer in 2015 than 2014, we attempted to fill in the gaps by showcasing more Asian and vegetarian options.

• Food Truck Scene
• OSEA (Contemporary)
• Curry (Indian)
• Lemoncillo (Vietnamese)
• Prana (Vegetarian)
• Centeno (Vegetarian)
• Hellriegel Beer Company (Microbrewery)
• Restaurante El Viejo John (Colombian)
• Buying Lechona (whole pig)
• Best Brunches

Nightlife

Maybe it’s because so much has been written before, or we simply had fewer partiers writing for us, but nightlife wasn’t a hotly covered topic in 2015.

• El Banana Splitter: Nightlife that Welcomes Diversity
• Woka Lounge
• Sindominio Art Bar: Murals, Music and Alternative Nightlife

Sports and Recreation

Much to the chagrin of Colombians, Pablo Escobar’s name was once again in the news. This time, on account of Narcos, the new Netflix series that proved to be a hit. Narcos has already been picked up for a second season, so we should expect another new wave of interest in Medellín by mid-2016.

• Narcos: A Colombian Perspective on the New Netflix Series
• 10 Best Places to Take a Date
• Movie Theater Guide
• Dancefree Salsa and Bachata School
• Guide to City Bikes: Buying, Renting and Riding
• What I Miss About Poker in Medellín
• Medellín Cricket Club

Charity and Volunteering

Before he left Colombia mid-year, Nick profiled a few more organizations doing admirable work in the city.

• Social Entrepreneurship: Building Businesses for the Community
• The Alliance for Responsible Mining: Transforming the Mining Sector
• Mercados Campesinos: Supporting Local Farmers and Entrepreneurs
• E2E Foundation: An NGO Creating an Impact

Paisa Perspective Series

We published six interviews for our Paisa Perspective series, which aims to share insights about the paisa culture from Colombians of varying backgrounds.

• Fernando Jaramillo (Writer)
• Frank Martínez (Comic)
• Johanna Logreira (Designer)
• Claudia Márquez Cadavid (First Lady)
• Eduardo González (Musician)
• Laura Echavarria (Fashion Blogger)

Travel in Colombia

• Leah’s Do’s and Don’ts of Carnival in Barranquilla
• Caño Cristales: The River of Five Colors
• Caribbean Beaches: Capurgana, Sapzurro and Aguacate
• Jericó: More than Religious Tourism
• 900 KM of Colombia by Land: Manizales to Bucaramanga
• Top 10 Things to Do in Manizales

Real Estate

• Medellín Real Estate: How to Start Your Search for a Good Investment
• Medellín Real Estate: Foreign Buyer’s Guide
• 2015 Update: Furnished Apartment Rental Costs
• How to Find a Room for Rent

Everything Else

• Uber in Medellín: 7 Ways the Service Offers a Superior Experience
• Marriage Visa: How to Get a TP-10 Visa in Colombia
• Filing Taxes in Colombia
• Frozen in Spring Time: Freezing My Eggs at inSer Fertility Center
• Medellín Living’s Editorial Policy

Previous Years

• 2014
• 2013
• 2012
• 2011
• 2010

Thank you to everyone who read Medellín Living this year. It’s been a blast, and we look forward to continuing to keep you informed and entertained in the new year.

Is there a topic you’d like to see us cover in 2016?

Share your thoughts in the comments below.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

So far, the feedback has been awesome. We’ve received five-star reviews as well as specific recommendations for improvement. We appreciate hearing your thoughts, so please keep them coming.

The first half of 2015 was spent working on the app and I’m proud to share version 1.12 was approved by Apple and released in the App Store June 3, 2015.

As a reminder, this app is completely free to download and use!

Highlights from Version 1.12

• 25 new places added, bring the total to over 200 listings
• Uber integration – get instant time & fare estimates and one-touch access to request Uber rides to any of the app’s listings*
• Currency converter – exchange rates for the U.S., Canadian and Australian Dollars, the British Pound and Euro*
• Event listings imported live from Medellín Living’s calendar*
• Addition of price range info and filters for restaurants, nightlife and accommodation ($ – cheap, $$ – moderate or $$$ – expensive)
• Discount coupons for tours and dance lessons
• Photo gallery mode (tap a photo to see it against a black background and zoom in on details)
• A list view to complement the nearby places map view
• Ability to delete listings in the favorites view
• Ability to copy addresses from a place’s map view
• Important/emergency contact numbers
• Safety tips for visiting Medellín

Got an iPhone? Head over to the App Store and download the free Medellín Guide now.

And if you like what you see and find it useful, be sure to give it a rating and review.

_______

*Updates occur whenever you open the app and have a mobile data or Wi-Fi connection.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

I was so positive I wouldn’t find someone like her when she decided to return to the U.S. in late 2014, I didn’t even look. Then Leidy Madonna reached out and introduced herself.

Leidy is a bilingual (English/Spanish) sports therapist from Puerto Asis, a town in the Putumayo region of the Colombian Amazon, near the border with Ecuador.

According to her, it’s a “land of indigenous traditions and beliefs in plants and all the natural holistic world.”

In Medellín, she works out of her apartment near the Premium Plaza mall (Poblado), as well as by visiting clients’ homes. By the time she invited me to experience her services, she’d already begun working with several of my previous therapist’s clients, as well as local athletes.

When I arrived for my first appointment, Leidy invited me inside and offered a glass of juice, which I gladly accepted. A comfortable looking massage table was set up in the living room, with plenty of natural light.

We had a brief chat in which I told her I was in no physical pain and was interested in the massage as a way to relieve stress and tension.

Within minutes, she was going to work on my back and shoulders, and she didn’t hesitate to go deep. Her approach is a combination of different techniques, including deep tissue, trigger point, rolfing and reflexology.

Leidy initially learned the art of massage from a therapist in her hometown. She didn’t go to school for it, but rather learned through what sounded like an apprenticeship.

Since then, she has continued to learn new styles and techniques. In 2016, she’s going to begin working toward her degree in Sports Training and Nutrition.

Like Florence, it was her experience with pain which led her to start helping others. We didn’t get into specifics, but she mentioned it was a condition that caused her to feel pain throughout her body for 10 years.

As a result of her experience with pain, she is now committed to helping others. She told me her biggest satisfaction is seeing her clients smile after a treatment and that no one should have to live in pain.

My first massage lasted about 90 minutes. Afterwards, she typically leads her clients in some light stretching, but I had another appointment so I couldn’t stay.

The next day I felt a moderate amount of soreness, so when I returned the following week for a second massage, I asked for less pressure.

The second massage was more relaxing, and I felt less soreness the next day too. We’d found a happy medium, and I knew I’d found a new therapist to help me combat the stress of city life.

Nick Milne also had the opportunity to experience one of Leidy’s massages. Below is his account.

“As soon as I entered the room, I thought I would be in for a good, professional massage. A massage is an experience and for me the ambience is key. There were candles and relaxing music, and Leidy’s friendly welcome. Ideal.

We had a brief discussion about what kind of pressure I liked (I went medium) and then if I had suffered any injuries in the past. Leidy is an injury specialist and specializes in sports massage so ideal for anyone with aches and pains from long-suffering sports injuries.

She worked her way from the back down to the legs, switched me onto my back and then finished with the head. All while using different oils and ointments for relevant parts. The pressure was firm without being too harsh.

Overall I was very pleased with the session which lasted just over an hour and a half. I felt a bit like I had done a strenuous work out the next day, but felt great as the days progressed.

I would recommend a massage to relieve the everyday stress and strains of living in Medellín and in Leidy you will find a friendly, professional and competent masseuse.”

Whether you’re seeking to reduce stress like Nick and me or have a specific injury or ailment that needs a healing touch, I’m confident recommending Leidy Madonna.

Editor’s Note: As of June 11, 2015 Leidy’s main office is now in Patio Bonito (Poblado), however, she will still be working out of Laureles one day a week, for those who live on that side of the river. The rates below were updated on June 11.

Types of Massage

• Deep tissue
• Trigger point
• Injury massage rehab
• Therapeutic massage (full body, focus and release stress, emotions, proper breathing and connect with yourself)
• Reflexology
• Craniofacial

Contact Info

To confirm rates and schedule an appointment, call, text or Whatsapp Leidy at (+57) 320-973-9205 or write her by email at soulbodytherapist@gmail.com.

For more info, check out Leidy’s website and Facebook page.

__________

My sessions were provided compliments of Leidy Madonna in exchange for sharing honest feedback about the experience here.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

Occupying the ground floor of a building which also includes Carito (a vallenato club) on the second floor and Woka Lounge on the rooftop, Triada recently updated it’s interior design to coincide with the launch of a new menu.

Last month, I invited a friend for dinner and drinks on a Friday night so I could check it out.

Triada’s new menu covers the gamut, from typical Colombian dishes to international favorites like sushi, pasta and pizza. The focus, however, is on steaks, which I’ll get to in a moment.

For a starter, I went with one of my new favorites, the burrata, which was presented with cherry tomatoes in a pesto sauce (21,900 pesos, $8.80).

It was nicely presented, and well executed. The creamy cheese center oozed out once I punctured the exterior with my fork.

Additional appetizers include ceviche, calamari, grilled octopus, nachos and mozzarella sticks.

For the health-conscious, there are six types of salads on the menu, including turkey, salmon and Mexican. The prices for salads ranged from 22,900 to 28,900 pesos ($9.20 to $11.60).

The main event, at least as far as I could tell from the menu, were the steaks.

An entire page is dedicated to presenting MásFinca Carnes, a Colombian brand of premium beef similar to Certified Angus beef in the U.S.

Options included baby beef, entrecote, chateaubriand, churrasco, ribs, and pepper steak, among others.

I ordered the full-size bacon-wrapped filet mignon with mushroom sauce, fries and salad (33,900 pesos, $13.60). I asked for them to be cooked medium, and am happy to report they came out cooked perfectly. The mushroom sauce was a flavorful accompaniment.

The only mistake I made was thinking I could eat a full-size order, as it turned out to be too much given I’d also had an appetizer.

This left me completely stuffed; it was the rare meal where I couldn’t even contemplate dessert, despite the delicious looking chocolate volcano cake (9,000 pesos, $3.60) I noticed on the menu earlier.

After dinner, we walked to the front of the restaurant to check out the new bar being manned by an Italian mixologist.

It’s my favorite feature of the new interior as it reminds me of the bars I’m familiar with back in the U.S. There were even stools so you could sit at the bar itself, something that still feels rare here.

In the mood for something new, I told the bartender I liked gin, and he recommended a White Lady with Hendrick’s gin, Cointreau, lemon and sugar. It was delicious, a cocktail I’d certainly order again.

Meanwhile, my friend was sipping on her favorite, a margarita.

The bar faces the pedestrianized street, so it’s perfect for people watching. It’s opposite La Octava, a bar I use to visit often my first six months in the city.

Drinks consumed, we headed upstairs to Woka Lounge to enjoy another round under the open sky. Those looking to dance can just as easily access Carito.

________

This story was written in partnership with Triada.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

They said No al Turista Sexual, the meaning of which should be apparent to most foreigners, whether they speak a lick of Spanish or not.

The stickers, along with the businesses agreeing to display them, send a clear message that sex tourists are not welcome in those places. And there’s strength in numbers.

The more businesses that display them, the harder it becomes to ignore the sentiment of a community that has seen an increase in sex tourists on par with the city’s impressive growth in tourism.

The “No to the Sex Tourist” campaign was launched by Pazamanos, a local NGO, in response to what it saw as a sense of apathy among Colombians concerning the rise in sex tourists around Parque Lleras.

In order to learn more about the problem and the campaign, I visited the offices of Pazamanos earlier this month, where I had the chance to speak with the staff there.

My first question was what is their definition of a “sex tourist” as that itself is up for debate.

They said if the visitor’s primary intention for going to a country was to have sex, then he/she is a sex tourist.

When it comes to determining who is or isn’t a sex tourist in my mind, I think of the “I know it when I see it” attitude taken by U.S. Justice Potter Stewart when trying to define what is obscenity, and therefore, what is covered by the U.S. Constitution’s First Amendment, which guarantees a right to free speech.

For example, I recall a conversation last year with a friend in Medellín who was clearly disturbed by the fact that one of the rooms being rented in the apartment where he was staying was occupied by an older foreign man.

This man had two girls a day coming over for sex, every day, for at least a week. When I asked my friend how he met them, he said Facebook. He was also concerned some might have been under 18.

I hope we can all agree this kind of behavior is predatory (and abusive and basic exploitation of women), increases the odds of passing STDs, increases the chances of unwanted pregnancies in teenagers, and ultimately, takes much more than it gives to the local society.

As U.S. readers were reminded in this 2012 story by Colombia Reports:

The age of consent in Colombia is 14, however, it is illegal to engage in prostitution under 18.

The United States’ Protect Act allows U.S. prosecutors to prosecute American citizens for engaging in illicit sexual conduct with a person under the age of 18.

I also asked about what motivated Pazamanos to take up this cause.

The campaign started from seeing this problem develop in front of our eyes like these activities were totally normal. This is a cultural campaign. A campaign that seeks to show rejection of sex tourists, but also seeks to raise awareness among normal tourists and locals.

This campaign that Pazamanos initiated has been promoted by local institutions, hostels, hotels, bars, restaurants, etc. because we, together, want to promote a healthy and sustainable tourism.

In response to whether they’ve noticed a change around Parque Lleras since the campaign launched:

The campaign did not start in Parque Lleras but in Vía Primavera and Provenza, however there are some establishments there that have already adopted the campaign.

The campaign is based in something called “tactic urbanism.”

It started in Vía Primavera and Provenza by the shops and coffee shops and now has already spread to other places in Medellín, like restaurants on Calle 10, hotels in Laureles or Parque Arví.

The shops and coffee shops in Provenza have informed that these activities have decreased in the area. However, the activities of sex tourists are really difficult to measure. Other important data is that day by day, more and more people is conscious about this problem and people conscious will bring change.

And I also wanted to know what our readers could do to help if they are concerned with the exploitation of women and children in Medellín.

Everyone can get involved, first learning about this problem, raising awareness with family and friends, joining the campaign using the logo on their phones, computers, cars, etc, and in the last place showing their pacific rejection to these sex tourists.

Colombian people has suffered and have carried a stigma internationally for too long. We don’t want this to happen again with the sex tourist.

We want to protect our social capital. We want a healthy and sustainable tourism. And through cultural change, we can start doing that.

Earlier this week, a mutual friend put me in touch with Samantha Eyler, a feminist writer living in Santa Elena.

She has written extensively on women’s issues, so I took the opportunity to ask her a few questions as well.

What can be done in Medellín, and Colombia as a whole, to clamp down on the exploitation of girls and boys under the age of 18?

An overwhelming amount of data indicates that any form of social, legal, or economic stigmatization and repression drives markets underground and empowers the worst kinds of opportunists to take advantage of desperate or marginalized people.

So at the macro level, one of the most important things that needs to be done is to break down the huge stigmas that make all sex workers afraid to use their voices, speak out about the exploitation that happens to them, and seek the legal redress and protections to which they are entitled.

Those wishing to help children stuck in the sex trade should understand that the number-one push factor driving them and keeping them in the sex trade is severe socioeconomic vulnerability and lack of social security.

Fixing this vulnerability at the roots involves strengthening the social safety net and improving the opportunities of the most vulnerable citizens to develop their human capital, so you should support all political and economic initiatives with those aims.

Is there anything readers concerned with the exploitation of women and children in Medellín can do to help?

At the micro level, individuals can start, obviously, by ensuring they never, EVER buy sex from an underage sex worker.

If there is any doubt whatsoever about the sex worker’s age, remove yourself from the interaction. And I am also an advocate of publicly calling out any person you know who is criminal enough to pay for sex with minors.

You could do this on sex trade forum sites like International Sex Guide, or even on the local Facebook groups for expats. Calling people out is the most forceful way that concerned individuals can directly impact the norms of their own communities.

I’d also note from my own experiences in the expat community here in Medellin, the people who we need to speak out and publicly shame their peers who are involved in exploitative transactions are men to other men.

Conversations about the local sex trade happen in frat-boy-type bubbles where guys are way more interested in showing off their sexual prowess than in probing each other’s sexual ethics.

But if you know your mate is paying for sex with a 17-year-old or employing underage cam girls and you don’t call him out on it, you are part of the problem.

Show your support for the No al Turista Sexual campaign by visiting and liking the Facebook page and sharing it with friends.

Learn more about Pazamanos, including their other social projects like Héroes Comuna 13, at their website.

________

Corrections: On May 2, 2015, the title was changed from “No to Sex Tourism” to “No to the Sex Tourist” and three quotes from Pazamanos’ staff were added.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

It was full of lies, claiming I’m a sex tourist, I abuse minors, there’s proof, I’m going to jail and I will be shamed publicly as a result. Worse, it implied I’d be killed.

It ended with an ultimatum, I either shut down Medellín Living, the Facebook page, book and app within one week or face the consequences.

I immediately notified U.S. and Colombian authorities of what I felt were serious and specific threats against me. Below are the steps I took to protect myself.

The U.S. Embassy in Bogotá

I spoke with the American Citizen Services group, which handles emergencies involving U.S. citizens in Colombia.

They are aware of the situation and I now have a point of contact there.

Fiscalía General de la Nación

At Fiscalía (Prosecutor’s office) near the Universidad de Antioquia, I filed a sworn statement about the defamation and harassment.

I provided them with copies of every message.

Local Police

I delivered the protection order I received from the Fiscalía to my local police station.

The assisting officer brought a copy of the protection order signed by his commander to my home by 9 a.m. the next morning. I even ran into a friendly cop I know in the parking lot.

The police also told me about the free Cuadrante Amigo app (iPhone // Android).

Install it on your smartphone and open it if you find yourself in any danger. The app waits five seconds and then automatically sends a message to the nearest officer who can respond based on your GPS location.

Everyone visiting Medellín should get this app.

Gaula

Gaula is a special police division responsible for handling cases involving kidnapping and extortion.

Gaula can be reached locally, at no cost, by dialling 165. Their offices are located in Guayabal, across the river from Ciudad del Río, at Carrera 51 #14-259.

Facebook

I reported this third and most serious instance of harassment to Facebook and blocked the fake profile. I also made my Facebook profile private and am not accepting new friends.

This person has already contacted at least three of my friends through Facebook to spread lies and discredit me. If you receive such a message, please save it (either a screenshot or copy/paste), report the harassment to Facebook and block the account.

Friends and Family

I began reaching out to trusted friends and family to make them aware of what I was experiencing.

Talking about the experience has helped me process why someone would make up terrible lies to try and force me out of business (hint: anti-Americanism).

Anyone who knows me, knows these statements against me are 100 percent bullshit.

The Role of Medellín Living

I want to reassure readers I have nothing to hide. I’m a law-abiding citizen of the U.S. who also respects the laws of Colombia, and any country I visit.

Further, I try to live a peaceful life that’s respectful and understanding of others, regardless of race, nationality, sexual orientation, religion or background.

That said, I recognize by not taking a public stand against the rise of sex tourism in Medellín, I may be perceived as not caring, or worse, complicit in illegal or harmful behavior.

Medellín Living’s purpose is to present the city and Colombians in a positive light. While this is a difficult topic, I will not shy away from addressing it here.

No Al Turista Sexual (No to the Sex Tourist)

Earlier this month, I met with Pazamanos, the NGO behind the No Al Turista Sexual (No to the Sex Tourist) campaign, to learn more about the problem, their goals and how I can help.

This week, I’ll be dedicating a separate story to the campaign. Until then, please read this excellent article by Colombia Reports from last year.

Story Removed

In addition, I removed the review I wrote several years ago promoting Colombian Cupid (click here to see it’s no longer in Google’s results), a dating website for foreign men to meet Colombian women.

While I and several friends have met smart, wonderful women through it, and I do not consider it a sex tourism website, I do know it is used by sex mongers.

For this reason, I will no longer promote it on Medellín Living nor will it be included in the iPhone app or mentioned in the next version of my book.

At the end of the day, I believe it’s the sex tourists themselves, not any particular website or app, that are the problem, however, I am more than happy to make this concession.

Online Harassment

According to a 2014 survey by the Pew Research Center, “73% of adult internet users have seen someone be harassed in some way online, and 40% have personally experienced it.”

Sadly, research shows young people and women bear the brunt of it, but as I’ve learned recently, it can happen to anyone, anywhere, for any reason.

Have you experienced harassment or intimidation running your business in Medellín, Colombia, or anywhere else for that matter? Share your experiences in the comments below.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

After the meeting, I looked Laura’s blog up and was excited to see she publishes in both Spanish and English, therefore making her stories and advice easily accessible.

She also travels internationally, sharing photos and experiences from as far away as Mexico and Turkey. Follow her on Instagram.

The inspiration for Fashionlessons

I started 7 years ago, I came back from living 4 years in Barcelona where I studied Fashion Design. There, I met a woman named Diane Pernet who was one of the first to have a blog on fashion and so she inspired me to do it.

It was also an excuse to build up a writing portfolio because I want to write for newspapers and magazines.

Fashionlessons is a place where you can find anything cultural related to fashion.

Thoughts on why blogging isn’t as popular in Colombia as other countries

I really don’t know, I guess it is becoming popular right now, we get things here later than in the rest of the world.

Favorite Colombian designer

Johanna Ortiz is my favorite, she is fresh and cool, but she is really stuck to a Colombian identity, and she is also really “affordable.”

You can buy her things at her store in Bogotá or at Moda Operandi, one of the coolest fashion e-commerce shops.

Colombiamoda (Fashion Week)

I think it’s really important, and it’s getting stronger with the years. We have more new designers each year that export our design identity and creativity.

In Latin America, I would say it is the most important fashion event, and press from all over the world comes.

I still think we have to improve quality in some aspects but in general it’s a pretty cool and creative event, not to mention it moves millions of dollars.

Bogotá vs. Medellín

I think Bogotá is more open, and people there have more identity. Also, it’s the capital city, so they get all the big brands and also all the people coming to live there from all over the world influences the citizens of Bogotá. So I think in some way they get more styles.

Medellín is still a small city and people here are still stuck to what other people may think, and they are afraid of exploring their style. That’s why maybe people in Bogotá have more style.

Trends for 2015

Norm core is still a big trend, trying too hard to look like you wore the first thing in your closet. Also botanical flowers, prints in all its ways and fringes are a must.

Where can a guy/gal get some fashion help?

I can help you renew your wardrobe and to build your own personal style, that’s the most important thing! Being true to yourself and being unique!

Medellín

I love the kindness of the people, I love the food and green everywhere. I think we can improve by expanding the offer in everything, from cultural to food places.

Shopping (aside from Vía Primavera/Provenza)

It’s sad to say, but I can’t think about any other place. Online shopping is a really good idea.

Coffee time

Velvet or Pergamino.

In search of culture

El MAMM is for me the best place for art here; the place is beautiful, and they are in expansion right now.

Favorite city escape

Rionegro, I use to go there for the weekends and have a nice dose of fresh air.

_________

Photos by Mateo Garcia @teograph

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

The novelty of a menu that rotates monthly, and a clear focus on using fresh, organic, seasonal ingredients inspired me to pay a visit one Friday afternoon in late January.

Located a half block west of Parque Poblado, OSEA’s green facade makes it easy to spot.

Inside, a mere six tables, seating up to 18 people at a time, fill the narrow restaurant. A mirror running three-quarters of the length helps give it a more spacious feel.

I was the first to arrive for lunch that day, yet all the tables were reserved aside from the one closest to the door. Feeling luck was on my side, I took a seat facing the street and began to peruse the cocktail menu.

In the mood for gin, I had my eye on the Bee’s Knees (16,000 pesos, $6.50), made of gin, lemon and honey.

When I asked the waiter for recommendations, he said the chef suggested an Old Fashioned with Tanqueray gin instead of bourbon, sugar and artisanal bitters (22,000 pesos, $9). I threw caution to the wind and ordered it.

The cocktail arrived with a single, large ice-cube topped with red pepper and a lemon peel garnish. Large ice cubes are a good sign in cocktails, as they melt more slowly and are thus less likely to water down your drink before you finish it.

The presentation was pretty, but as I suspected, the cocktail was too strong for me. When I mentioned this to the waiter, he took my unfinished drink away and brought me my original choice, the Bee’s Knees, which was softer and sweeter.

In a sign of the way chef/proprietor Salomón Borenstein runs his business, I wasn’t charged for the first cocktail.

OSEA also serves aperitifs like Campari and Cointreau, scotch whiskeys, Bogotá Beer Company, a juice of the day, Namaste tea and coffee.

My January lunch began with the comfort food combo of a super gooey grilled cheese and tomato soup (18,000 pesos, $7). As an appetizer, it was huge, but oh so good. The imported cheese is key, of course.

For the main course, I had ribs with spaetzle and mushrooms (27,000 pesos, $11). Dessert was a sumptuous upside down pineapple cake with sour cream ice cream (12,000 pesos, $5).

I preferred the appetizer and dessert over the entrée, but that’s partly my fault as I had Humo’s BBQ ribs in my mind.

In March, while my friend Jason was visiting from Bogotá with a friend, I suggested we grab lunch at OSEA. The menu was already in its third incarnation of the year, assuring I’d be eating something new, along with my friends.

This time I skipped the appetizer though I did note there was a foi gras option.

Instead, I focused on a main course of fish with dates, orange, pistachios and a rice arepa (36,000 pesos, $11). It was beautifully presented and tasted great.

Jason ordered the chicken with watermelon, mint and curry and was equally satisfied (27,000 pesos, $11).

Remembering how amazing the upside pineapple cake was from my first visit, I ordered the chocolate porter cake with chocolate cream and a maracuya sauce (13,000 pesos, $6).

It too was wonderfully presented, and tasted even better.

OSEA was two for two in my visits the first three months of this year.

I highly recommend stopping by for lunch or dinner. If dining later in the week, be sure to call ahead and make reservations.

If you need help with reservations or other top restaurant options, visit Latin Hosts.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

On Saturday April 25th Mansion Club will be showcasing a new techno night – “Future Underground” with DJs Nick Bowman (UK) and Camilo Serna (Colombia) in association with Medellín Living.

The Future Underground Show is a long-running techno radio show presented by English DJ, Nick Bowman.

It started around 2006 and was a weekly show on British radio. It’s home for the last five years has been Digitally Imported’s techno channel. The show features guest mixes from the world’s top techno talent and has a large global following.

Future Underground at Mansion Club will be bringing some of the finest underground techno to Medellín.

Mansion Club is the perfect venue for techno. A tunnel leads to the intimate, dark and moody club. You could quite easily imagine yourself being in Berlin or London, but you don’t need to imagine yourself being in Europe because Medellín is the techno capital of South America and has its own special vibe and scene.

Future Underground aims to offer an excellent party vibe with a mix of electronic music lovers from around the world and here in Colombia.

There are many language exchanges in the city; this could be considered a “techno exchange.” Techno lovers from here and abroad meeting up, partying and making new friends.

Nick Bowman 

Nick is a techno DJ and producer from England, now residing in Medellín. He was resident DJ for a techno event in London, playing alongside the likes of Gary Beck, Monoloc, Hans Bouffmyhre, Nihad Tule, Par Grindvik, among many others.

He hosts his monthly radio show on the third Friday of the month at 3 p.m. Colombian time and another here. The show is available as a podcast after its first airing here and on Soundcloud. Check out the earlier shows to get an idea of the type of music you can expect from the night. For more information about Nick follow him on Facebook.

Camilo Serna 

Camilo is one of the best-known techno DJs from Medellín and Colombia. He is one of the original members of Intelligent Division (the first techno collective in the city) and has been djing for over ten years.

He has played at major events all over Colombia, Latin America, England and the USA. He spent a year in England and played at Ministry of Sound and Pacha. He has played alongside the world’s biggest techno names including Chris Liebing, Adam Beyer, Sven Vath, Derrick May, Mark Broom, Troy Pierce, Loco Dice, Marco Carola and loads more. For more information about Camilo follow him on Facebook and Soundcloud.

Special Offer for Medellín Living Readers

Future Underground at Mansion is offering a great deal for readers of Medellín Living. If you present either the flyer (above) on your phone or printed, you will receive two for one entry and a free shot.

Use together with code MLMANSION to take advantage of this special offer.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.

I first met Don Aristides, known colloquially as the “Juan Valdez of the silleteros” in 2013 during a blog trip to Santa Elena.

We were there to learn about the beautiful region, a mere 30 minutes east of Medellín, that gave birth to the flower-arranging tradition in the mid-20th century which continues to be the backbone of the city’s annual Flower Festival.

At the time, he invited me to visit his finca though it would take running into him again a year later, and another invite, for me to make it happen.

And I’m glad I did, because spending time with Don Aristides at his tranquil home in the central hills of Santa Elena turned out to be the perfect escape from the big city, if only for a half day.

Finca Chaguaro

The visit began courtesy of Camilo from Medellín City Services, who picked me up, as well as my friends Eric and Karen of Trans-Americas, who were staying in Belén at the time.

We quickly made our way up and out of the city. Along the way, Camilo told us about Don Aristides’ directions to his home, which were to “turn right at the second phone booth and then left at the big cedar tree.”

If you thought finding an address in Medellín was tricky, just try it once you’re in the countryside. Thankfully, we had Camilo’s help, plus he acted as a translator so we wouldn’t miss any of the details in our host’s stories (all of which were in Spanish).

Don Aristides home, named Finca Chaguaro after a type of tree on the property, sits on a tall hill with a commanding view of the surrounding farms. It was built on land purchased by his father in 1928; he’s lived there for over 40 years.

His driveway is steep; we had to leave Camilo’s SUV at the bottom and walk up it. Our host was there to greet us halfway; the four of us walking the rest together.

Five families work on the finca, with the average work day being 12 hours (from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.).

Don Aristides

As of 2014, Don Aristides has participated in 47 straight Desfiles de Silleteros (Flower Parades), and in that time, he’s created and carried all forms of silletas.

He is adamant that his participation in the parade is not about trying to win awards or money; those material benefits are secondary to keeping the flowers and tradition alive.

Our tour of Don Aristides’ home included a visit to his greenhouse. He also took the time to point out some of the most interesting plants and flowers growing immediately around his home.

One such flower was the small blue “forget me not” which he told us dated back to 1897.

His hospitality was also appreciated; I’m not one to turn down a delicious arepa with cheese and hot chocolate.

This basic meal, as pictured above, remains one of my favorites from Colombia. Warm, hearty comfort food.

Don Aristides’ tireless dedication to flower growing and arrangement led him to become the face of the silleteros in old marketing campaigns.

He’s traveled internationally to represent this proud tradition, yet he says what he appreciates most about the opportunities given him is the ability to have his family living around him in Santa Elena.

I can think of no better way to tap into the spirit of the silletero tradition than to spend a half-day visiting Don Aristides.

To help with transportation and translation, I recommend booking the Silletero Tour with Medellín City Services.

At the time of writing, the cost begins at $95 USD for one person and drops to $55 USD per person for two to four people. There’s also the option to extend your time in Santa Elena with a full day tour, which also includes lunch.

Giveaway

We’re once again giving away a free half day tour courtesy of Medellín City Services. The winner can choose to visit Don Aristides or any of the half day tours on offer.

Click here for your chance to win.

_____________

Did you enjoy this post? Support Medellin Living by making a small donation, and get access to special benefits like priority email responses to your questions and a free copy of the Medellin Travel Guide. Click here to learn more.